SpudFiles

You can probably find a lighter that ignites with a battery if you look long enough... I don't guarantee it will be as durable as a sureshot igniter but it will be cheaper and maybe smaller than the sureshot igniter.

@theBoom
I've already committed to the 30KV Ignition Circuit from Sureshot. It should arrive anytime from now until the end of time, so we'll see. I just don't have the patience to search around for a battery lighter and have to break my back bending sideways to get it so to speak.

I figure I'll wire a momentary push button switch into the wooden pistol grip I have, run that to the ignition circuit (that will be mounted to the outside of the chamber and put into a nice little box),and then wire the circuit to the two leads I have going to the chamber that form my spark gap.


I promise to post the cannon once it's fully built, tested, and painted. I may even feel froggy and post some of the ones I've built and neglected to post from the past. Who knows.

I think that since USG is a relatively new business, the shipping times should be reasonable. Also, I don't think there's much in the way of labor (unless he makes the circuits himself) put into the igniter, so he probably just needs to slap one in a box and ship it.

Of course, I've never seen the likes of his igniters in the commercial world, so who knows.

I'll PM you with a sneak peek of my ignition system when I get it running (as you put it: 'anytime between now and the end of time'. ). Just incase you change your mind on your next project.

would this -> http://ultimatespudgun.com/30kv-igniter-p-219.html work with a 5-15X hybrid ?

Well, seeing as it's 30kv, it can jump about 1.2" in good conditions.

Since the size of the gap changes inversely to the mix number, for a 15x hybrid, you would need to have a spark gap of about 0.08" or less, probably a good bit less, depending on your electrode shape, etc.

Sounds small, but could be done with adjustable electrodes and a feeler gauge.

I'll PM you with a sneak peek of my ignition system when I get it running (as you put it: 'anytime between now and the end of time'. ). Just incase you change your mind on your next project.

Looking forward to it.

The 30KV Ignition circuit arrived in the mail today!
What a pleasant surprise it was...


Why doesn't it tell me specifically which terminals to solder my wires to? I think guessing would be a bad idea. USG's website only says,

"A simple, cost effective compact ignition solution for your combustion or hybrid spudgun. This unit operates with a standard 9-volt alkaline battery and can be operated with self contained or remote battery. The unit hosts 2 switch spade terminals and 2 ignition "solder on" terminals. Simply shorting the switch terminals activates the unit and discharges 30KV at 10Hz with 10 millijoules of energy to the ignition terminals. Recommended spark gap range .1" - .375"."

There is a pair of thin terminals, and then a pair of wider ones.

Anyone know?

The 30KV Ignition circuit arrived in the mail today!
What a pleasant surprise it was...


Why doesn't it tell me specifically which terminals to solder my wires to? I think guessing would be a bad idea. USG's website only says,

"A simple, cost effective compact ignition solution for your combustion or hybrid spudgun. This unit operates with a standard 9-volt alkaline battery and can be operated with self contained or remote battery. The unit hosts 2 switch spade terminals and 2 ignition "solder on" terminals. Simply shorting the switch terminals activates the unit and discharges 30KV at 10Hz with 10 millijoules of energy to the ignition terminals. Recommended spark gap range .1" - .375"."

There is a pair of thin terminals, and then a pair of wider ones.

Anyone know?

*EDIT*

Disregard this post. Upon searching more closely, I've found the answer. I suggest everyone look at the USG blog. There's some neat stuff in there.[/b]

Why'd you need to look? The answer was in the except you quoted.

http://wwww.ultimatespudgun.com/ wrote:The unit hosts 2 switch spade terminals and 2 ignition "solder on" terminals.

Neat that it's in, though. Good luck with it. I would solder the ignition wires on and then add a layer or two of shrink-wrap, for what it's worth.

@mark.f:

I needed to look because I'm a noob when it comes to electronics. I only know how to solder and use heat shrink, not the terms for things. Once I saw the wiring diagram (aka the drawing a child could understand with big bright red circles and arrows), I got right to work soldering the bad boy together.
And it IS neat now that it's on. I left the actual circuit outside of the chamber for easy access and it looks very prototype/cyberpunk/mad scientist.


Update: The gun is in working condition, albeit lacking a few planned upgrades. I'll try to post it before the week is out.

mark.f wrote:Well, seeing as it's 30kv, it can jump about 1.2" in good conditions.

USG wrote:Spark gap: 0.10" to 0.375”

Might be less than 30kV actual output.

Hotwired wrote:

mark.f wrote:Well, seeing as it's 30kv, it can jump about 1.2" in good conditions.

USG wrote:Spark gap: 0.10" to 0.375”

Might be less than 30kV actual output.

I think that's just their recommended gap distance to ensure a strong spark. Before I soldered the wires from my spark gap to the circuit, it would easily jump the 3/4" between the terminals. The same website you pulled that quote from does in fact say that it is 30KV.