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Best vortex block design?

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:43 pm
by mike1010
ok so i have had some experience with vortex block bbmg's, most of mine are made with a plastic neoprene like plastic block with a 3/4 inch hole and shrouds, simple really, but i was recently given a large block of aluminum, and access to a metal shop. so my question is: what is the best possible size and shape to get the best rof half block ect.. and the size of the hole also could anyone throw up a pic or template if their idea differs greatly from the basic.

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:08 pm
by jrrdw
If you have one all ready, measure it's rate of fire. When you make the new one start smallish, measure the rof, then adjust accordingly. Then when you reach a better rof the the older bbmg, you'll be one up, stop tweaking! That would be my way.....

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 7:38 pm
by mike1010
the problem with that is in both the time needed to do that much testing and the very limited supply of high grade aluminum i can get my hands on. so from people with more experimental experience what works best?

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:06 pm
by jrrdw
Ohhhhh BriantheBrain, David and a few others. Give them time, they will check in.

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:30 pm
by mike1010
anyone? anything about the half block style?

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 2:03 am
by Davidvaini
Vortex block with no shroud and a good spring/plunger will be best however getting the spring just right can be a pain in the butt.. Chances are you will use too strong of a spring and you will need a shroud so it doesnt jam.

Making your shroud it should cover up about 1/4 of the hole for optimized efficiency. another thing I noticed is full circles meaning a complete 3/4" hole works best. Also to improve performance you can also file the air inlet and the barrel to curve the hole shape in the block. Also tapering the beginning of the barrel will also improve feeding without losing power.

There is also a vortex cap design which is similar in concept but more refined. It uses the shape of the pipe/chamber (full circle) as the vortex "block". This way you get a very nice smooth circle. The more exact you get with the circle the more it tends to jam. So using the perfect spring in a vortex cap is crucial. But again if you spring is too strong, you can always make a shroud.

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 5:45 pm
by Davidvaini
just a follow-up, were these answers helpful to you?

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 5:56 pm
by Big Boom
The vortex cap is an excellent design! It was amazingly easy for me (more like Fishboy, lol) to build. We (he) built it on Saturday, but I'm too lazy to post it yet.

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 7:39 pm
by jrrdw
Davidvaini wrote:just a follow-up, were these answers helpful to you?
Must have been, he's to busy building to answer! :P

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:33 pm
by mike1010
sorry ya they helped, i thought the shrouds helped rate of fire so ya, and i actually have been out getting my friends machine shop setup, i now have access to a metal lathe, mill and super heavy duty drill press so i can machine aluminum parts with reletive ease, and a place to get bar stock aluminum for around 2$ per pound, :D :D

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:07 pm
by jrrdw
Bar stock and round stock are two different things. Bar stock can take up a lot of machining time, in a machine shop, time is money. Around my way, it's about $70.00 a hour.

So you got any pictures of your build?

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:09 pm
by mike1010
what???? my friend owns the shop. its free since we are building guns to use at the local airsoft field. no pics until im finished but its really nothing too special just an inline aluminum vortex block. the fun will come as i learn to use the lathe and milling machine :D