Page 1 of 1

Inline vortex

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:08 pm
by Big Boom
Ok, so i built the vortex cap, but after making the videos of Fishboy's inline vortex, i decided that it was absolutely necessary for me to build one also. But first, I have some questions:
1) Should I make a full circle vortex block, or should i make the just-over-half-of-a-circle vortex block? (sorry for the lack of proper terminology.) I was planning on building the full circle type, but after reading noname's how-to, i am now leaning towards the half-block because tht's what he suggested in it.
2) Anyone know where I could pick up some acrylic sheet? (I live in the U.S.) - and i've checked before at Home Depot, but my search proved unfruitful.
3) How should I attach the vortex block to the pvc? (I was going to hot glue/ epoxy it in there, but in his how-to, noname suggested using a screw in order to make it serviceable.)

Thanks in advance, Big Boom.
(oh yeah, please don't tell me to just read and do more research because i've actually done a lot!)

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:02 pm
by FishBoy
1- IMO, full circle

2-the wonderfull thing called internet (I would try Mcmaster)

3-you don't really need to, the air connection and the barrel hold it in place.

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:04 pm
by Big Boom
ok, good answers, but I still want your opinions, folks. I don't really like ordering things on the internet, though, because I hate waiting.

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:07 pm
by Davidvaini
Vortex block with no shroud and a good spring/plunger will be best however getting the spring just right can be a pain in the butt.. Chances are you will use too strong of a spring and you will need a shroud so it doesnt jam.

Making your shroud it should cover up about 1/4 of the hole for optimized efficiency. another thing I noticed is full circles meaning a complete 3/4" hole works best. Also to improve performance you can also file the air inlet and the barrel to curve the hole shape in the block. Also tapering the beginning of the barrel will also improve feeding without losing power.

There is also a vortex cap design which is similar in concept but more refined. It uses the shape of the pipe/chamber (full circle) as the vortex "block". This way you get a very nice smooth circle. The more exact you get with the circle the more it tends to jam. So using the perfect spring in a vortex cap is crucial. But again if you spring is too strong, you can always make a shroud.

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:07 pm
by FishBoy
Mcmaster ships to us in 1 day, and u were talking about using acrylic; check out mcmaster part # 8680K28

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:10 pm
by Big Boom
Ok, thank you. And Davidvaini, Fishboy and I built a vortex cap (thanks to your help).

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:13 pm
by FishBoy
Big Boom wrote:Ok, thank you. And Davidvaini, Fishboy and I built a vortex cap (thanks to your help).
Although due to a too-strong spring and no shroud, it fires somewhat inconsistently. However, I just made a very simple inline vortex, and it works beautifully. :D

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:16 pm
by Big Boom
Why yes, yes it does. Now come get those bbs off of my driveway!

Oh yeah, and that is an expensive little cube. So a few questions about the 2 in. cube. (2 inches long, wide, and deep.)
1) it is long enough, right? (I'm pretty definite it is)
2) that should actually be wide enough for 2, correct?

oh yeah, and Fishboy, but you did something to keep yours in place as well, though, didn't you? Despite having a full block

Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:17 pm
by Davidvaini
If you guys ever need help with any BBMG technology just let me know.. I have played around with quite a few.

Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 7:49 am
by Shawner
Hi guys...new to the site. Recently built my first inline vortex with great results. Since I have access to lathes, mills, wire edm's and the like, I made my block from aluminum. I used the traditional style with the milled flats on both sides and shrouds covering about half of the venturi hole. With a heavy spring and 150 PSI I was able to unload 1500 bb's in about 20 seconds. Trying to improve on this, I thought of how to get rid of some of the "dead space" around the vortex block. Instead of milling flats, I used a solid round aluminum block, drilled the venturi hole, then drilled two 3/8 holes from the back of the block into the venturi. When I was done with this I plugged both sides of the venturi back up (which you really wouldn't have to do since the PVC will block both sides when block is slid in). Now instead of the wasted space on both sides of the shrouds it's just 2 straight holes into the venturi. Hopefully I will be trying it out in the next week or so. Might be interesting.
[/img]