SpudFiles

perhaps you can heat the parts you glued just enough to weaken the glue so you can take it apart...

With a bit of heat and effort the araldite can be removed to add the flats, at worst the barrel can be cut off and the parts re-drilled, so no harm done

LeMaudit wrote:Very glad it worked! Well... mine better work too now

No reason why it shouldn't, if anything it should be better put together - on the subject, any ideas on why my milling doesn't look as pretty as yours?

Here's a test at just 100 psi, it won't go through a beer can but that's to be expected. Also, note that since the cap doesn't have vents in it yet, this actually limits performance as it compromises pilot flow.

[youtube][/youtube]

I'll give you a solution Jack, no worries.. there's many ways to achieve the same result.

But think a bit first. Consider it a test

It would involve machining a piece on the rotary table you already have, that you then would use on the mill's vise to cut your flats.


[edit]

why my milling doesn't look as pretty as yours?

Yes

the cap doesn't have vents in it yet

This would also be better not glued yet

LeMaudit wrote:It would involve machining a piece on the rotary table you already have, that you then would use on the mill's vise to cut your flats.

Hmm... I would have to see the operations you're going to do first.

Yes

and... I'm supposed to figure it out myself by waxing cars and painting houses hint?

This would also be better not glued yet

pourquoi? If anything by attaching it to the endcap and to the first part it will give you somewhere to grip the part, right?

edit: also, can't get the chuck adapter off the rotary table - any special trick or does one need a "problem solver"?

I would have to see the operations you're going to do first.

Fair enough. But don't bother heat and unglue. Just think now as a new challenge to make octagonal flats on a piece like that. It's a 10mn operation to cut perfect flats with all you have.

I'm supposed to figure it out myself by waxing cars and painting houses

Yes

oh all right. Experience. 8)

Okay okay.. I don't know I would say you could have cut moving the piece too fast into the end mill (I would not be surprised!), or rotating too slow (this would be surprising ). The fins don't seem to be perpendicular, is it a camera lens trick? Your brass looks very reddish.. are you sure it is not bronze?
I confess my piece was a bit polished too... for a photograph of the raw version, look at the "teaser" picture.

pourquoi?

pamplemousse.

If anything by attaching it to the endcap and to the first part it will give you somewhere to grip the part, right?

True. But you may have concentric problems if you relate to a glued and very imprecise valve cap thread to center the piece. For the holes it's all right, but for the dimples, They need to be extra precise or the 0.03mm deep cut will show various diameters. Could be nice though
Also, the internal button will be right in the middle so careful not to drill it, and also to remove all the metal chips that will be stuck inside after the drilling. Removing the core would lower the button too much and you would drill through it, so you'll have to keep it there.

Not so big problems altogether, just unnecessary troubles due to... excitement
But that's perfectly normal My first experiments were without an audience, and I would certainly be much less proud about my first results.

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:edit: also, can't get the chuck adapter off the rotary table - any special trick or does one need a "problem solver"?

Lol. "everything's a hammer"

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote: Part done, but I don't seem to have managed the same finish with the mill as LeMaudit, though I'm quite sure I repeated the same cutting operations... any ideas?

Different speed, feed, machine rigidity (especially if he's using a different machine. Check your Gibs, though), tool sharpness, 2 flute vs 4 flute, coatings, lubricant, brass grade, tool length.



I would use a cutting oil, like TapMatic (smell s great). At work, we get good results with this method, as well as plunging down with the EM like it's a drill. This side cutting is done at 10k RPM and fast feeds, but the drilling is usually done at 2k RPM and a much slower feed (but it's a longer, bigger diameter tool and needs a better finish. Note that it's easier to sharpen the end of an endmill than the flutes. But still really hard.

That's not the 5% alc 500ml $10NZD for four cans Bavaria is it?

...tough financial times since buying the lathe I see

can't get the chuck adapter off the rotary table - any special trick or does one need a "problem solver"?

muahahaha... didn't see this one.
Yes, ramses if absolutely right: HAMMER!!!!
Seriously, you need a plastic hammer. just insert one of the steel rod in one of the holes (the upper ring) and gently tap. Look what I did at the end of the video 9A : same here.

Different speed, feed, machine rigidity (especially if he's using a different machine. Check your Gibs, though), tool sharpness, 2 flute vs 4 flute, coatings, lubricant, brass grade, tool length.

As I know what tooling JSR have, I would limit that list to:
Different speed, feed, brass grade

I would use a cutting oil, like TapMatic (smell s great)

I bought some for aluminum... my wife can't stand the smell I also thought the odor what not that bad... women...
I didn't use cutting oil for brass. I usually don't. Just to avoid the mess around. Machining slowly seem to provide nice enough results. Usually I use lubricant on brass for slitting/slicing/threading only.
I had some good result with LPS lube edge wax bar. No smell, no mess, and work well enough for slicing (I just put some wax at the cutting edges).

LeMaudit wrote:

I would use a cutting oil, like TapMatic (smell s great)

I bought some for aluminum... my wife can't stand the smell I also thought the odor what not that bad... women...

The stuff for aluminum is completely different; it comes (or came) in a silver can. The stuff in the metal gold can is for "everything except aluminum" and has an almost sweet smell. It's an old formula; I don't think it's available anymore.

LeMaudit wrote:As I know what tooling JSR have, I would limit that list to:
Different speed, feed, brass grade

So you don't have to adjust gibs on Sherline machines? Damn...

For fun here's my personal collection of chemicals (there's an out of place item in the picture)

So you don't have to adjust gibs on Sherline machines?

JSR machine is factory new. They should be all right
And BTW mine is in a very poor state and need complete realignment and gibs tuning.

LeMaudit wrote:For fun here's my personal collection of chemicals (there's an out of place item in the picture.

Hammer!!!

Oh ,and JSR, I made a video. The part was centered to about 20 thou, which is quite bad. It didn't help that there was irregular paint on the part... The whole mill wasn't in the shot, since it's taller than me. but the idea should be quite clear.

EDIT: Video. Took longer to upload than record/edit. A better way to do this would be to chuck up the drill you used for the center hole, and feed X and Y until the drill doesn't visibly deflect when you feed it into the hole.

[youtube][/youtube]

LeMaudit wrote:Okay okay.. I don't know I would say you could have cut moving the piece too fast into the end mill (I would not be surprised!), or rotating too slow (this would be surprising ). The fins don't seem to be perpendicular, is it a camera lens trick? Your brass looks very reddish.. are you sure it is not bronze?
I confess my piece was a bit polished too... for a photograph of the raw version, look at the "teaser" picture.

The fins aren't quite perpendicular. I have to study the video again in detail.

pamplemousse.

Jacque Cousteau.

Baguettte!

True. But you may have concentric problems if you relate to a glued and very imprecise valve cap thread to center the piece. For the holes it's all right, but for the dimples, They need to be extra precise or the 0.03mm deep cut will show various diameters. Could be nice though
Also, the internal button will be right in the middle so careful not to drill it, and also to remove all the metal chips that will be stuck inside after the drilling. Removing the core would lower the button too much and you would drill through it, so you'll have to keep it there.

Hmmm... we'll cross that bridge when we come to it

Not so big problems altogether, just unnecessary troubles due to... excitement
But that's perfectly normal My first experiments were without an audience, and I would certainly be much less proud about my first results.

Granted, but I'm guessing you didn't have such guidance either so I have no excuses

Different speed, feed, machine rigidity (especially if he's using a different machine. Check your Gibs, though), tool sharpness, 2 flute vs 4 flute, coatings, lubricant, brass grade, tool length.

They seem fine.

Again I need to have a good look at LeMaudit's video to see if I missed anything.

That's not the 5% alc 500ml $10NZD for four cans Bavaria is it?

...tough financial times since buying the lathe I see

I have more self respect! That's a result of the cooler effect. Go to a BBQ with a large-ish sturdy cooler, which will carry your beer and meat with some space left over. Invariably you will receive "can I leave my stuff in your cooler" requests from the less prepared which means that you tend to go home with freebies

Yes, ramses if absolutely right: HAMMER!!!!
Seriously, you need a plastic hammer. just insert one of the steel rod in one of the holes (the upper ring) and gently tap.

The problem wasn't the chuck but the threaded adapter that allows you to screw it to the rotary table. The solution was a large spatula and a pair of pliers to improvise a horizontal screwdriver. Sherline, y u no make allen head?

here's my personal collection of chemicals (there's an out of place item in the picture)

Hmmm, need to go shopping.

Video

Cheers! That's pretty much what I did

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote: Hmmm... we'll cross that bridge when we come to it

Well....That's what Ted Kennedy said!

Jacque Cousteau. Baguettte!

muhahaha.... excellent really!!!
You have now all the basics to meet French girls... and succeed!

Cousteau : Ca fait trente ans qu'il fait chier les mérous avec une lampe de poche pour savoir s'ils dorment la nuit.
Cousteau : Since thirty years he is bugging stone bass with a flashlight to know if they sleep at night.
- Patrick Timsit


JOJO THE STONE BASS' WALTZ
[YouTube][/YouTube]