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Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:35 pm
by wyz2285
Jack, fair point. I'll see if I can find some review.
Labtec this thing probably doesn't have speed control :lol: but I did find something almost the same as this by unimat, by double the price. So I read the specifications, looks like the same for both. But obviously the unimat one is more trustworthy.

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:43 pm
by jackssmirkingrevenge
I say be patient and keep looking, and don't pay more than 500 euro for a small lathe with basic tooling.

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:47 pm
by wyz2285
Thanks for the advice jack, I'll give a second thought.
Below 500 euro a good lathe I found some, but I'd prefer a lathe+mill, witch aren't much I can find

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:40 pm
by dewey-1
wyz2285 wrote:Thanks for the advice jack, I'll give a second thought.
wyz and JSR, this is a wise investment for any one machining/designing!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Machinerys-Ha ... 51a83e5994

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:44 pm
by wyz2285
Holy :lol: 130 pounds for that? Well it probably worth the price but I'd buy machines first :lol:

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:38 pm
by dewey-1
wyz2285 wrote:Holy :lol: 130 pounds for that? Well it probably worth the price but I'd buy machines first :lol:
That is the difference between knowledge and playing with TOYS.
TOYS are for kids where as a reference book is for a lifetime!

You will learn more with that book than with that TOY!

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:02 pm
by Zeus
Exactly, I bought some good machining books from someone who had no idea what they were selling, so I paid $3 for 4. But it's still a worthwhile investment.

You can't just learn to use a lathe by rooting around with it, you'll just break things and wear out the gibs. Get a good book, learn as much as you can, and by the time you've done that, you could probably afford a far better lathe than the ones you're looking at.

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:31 pm
by PaperNinja
after a little bit of the maths, I figured this out

((.042)*((x+14.7)/1.042)) is the formula for the psi of propane to put in.

x in that formula is the combined pressure of air and propane (the pressure you see on the bike/shock/fridge pump gauge). That means, for accurate results, the propane must be added first (but it would be anyway)

My gun wasn't firing earlier because I had too little propane in it, which makes sense since the limits are roughly 2% and 9%, so there's a lot less flexibility on the low end

Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:20 am
by wyz2285
Is it possible to make a ignition system from a plasma ball? I've seen one here that did that.
I mean for any transformer there must be 2 output right? Here are the photos, why is there only one output wire :?

Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:07 pm
by dewey-1
The other lead is basically the Black lead.
You will see two pins of transformer are connected to Black which is ground.

If you can give me a direct overhead close up and a view of all the values of parts I can create a schematic.
Any part numbers on components would help.

Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:28 pm
by wyz2285
So basically I just have to weld a wire from the 2 points and the spark will happen between the wire and the red wire?

Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:49 pm
by bahur47
Oi, i have a question. I am making a hand pump for my rifle and Im not sure how to make the check valve. For now im using a cone head screw and O-ring.(on the picture ) The screw is 4mm and the hole is 4mm, and when i pump up to 30 bars it gets realy hard to pump more. And im not sure if its just because the piston of the pump is too big (8 mm radius) or the surface of the check valve is too big, and the preasure pushes it too hard and it can't open. So if anyone have a real pcp pump and knows how the check valves look like, and the exact sizes of its elements I would be realy grateful if you share with me.

Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 1:53 am
by wyz2285
Your piston head is too big. As soon as the check valve sealing area is less than the piston head area, there won't be that kind of problem you're worried about.

Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:23 am
by Crna Legija
anyone come up with a good dent design? i'm really thinking off making one as i just got 500 7.5mm bbs and a co2 FE that i can fill with my fridgy, or is their any new semi auto designs that have come out since i left?

basicly i want to make a 800-1000psi semi or slow rate of fire full auto but don't want to use a 3way valve.

Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:09 am
by wyz2285
Is the hammerli hunter force 900 a good rifle for 200 euros?
Does 350 euros a good deal for a Weihrauch HW 97? The barrel is kind short. I have a 600mm barrel for it through.