SpudFiles

I am currently working on a silenced spudshotgun, and have completed everything but the stock. I want to be able to mount the shotgun onto a wooden stock that attaches to the underside without using any zip ties or any type of strap. I would use some sort of nuts or bolts, but the gun is already glued together so I can't screw it into the stock from the inside of the chamber. Preferably, also have the stock easily attached or removed. The stock would mostly be used to steady the gun rather than absorb recoil, but I still want it to be able to withstand significant recoil without breaking from the gun.

Note: I want to have the stock looking professional and without showing a whole mess of screws and glue. I also don't have anything that can machine parts. i do it all by hand with a Dremel and a jigsaw.

Edit: I have already shoulder fired this, all wiring and fuels are accounted for.

Any suggestions?

It all looks good but what did you plan to use for a sparker?? If you were going to use a BBQ ignitor, than you probably picked a bad spot. I would incorporate it into the stock. You could hide the wires where its glued or bolted, and actually put the sparker where a trigger would really go on the stock. Cant wait to see the outcome of this!!!

mattyzip77 wrote:It all looks good but what did you plan to use for a sparker?? If you were going to use a BBQ ignitor, than you probably picked a bad spot. I would incorporate it into the stock. You could hide the wires where its glued or bolted, and actually put the sparker where a trigger would really go on the stock. Cant wait to see the outcome of this!!!

I have an electronic sparker, and it works great. The actual electronics will go where it is shaded in the stock, and an earphone wire will carry power to the top of the "removable sparkplug". I made it removable so i could eventually add a butane canister inside the stock leading to the cap, and replace it easily if it breaks or the electrodes become corroded.

One word: Epoxy.

If you can't bolt it, or use an Augustine clip, the only other way I can see is to glue another fitting onto it, then bolt/screw that on.

Or just cast the whole thing in epoxy.

Zeus wrote:One word: Epoxy.

If you can't bolt it, or use an Augustine clip, the only other way I can see is to glue another fitting onto it, then bolt/screw that on.

Or just cast the whole thing in epoxy.

I like the idea of epoxying fittings on to both the stock and the actual gun although I'm concerned that the epoxy may be brittle (I've never used epoxy). What type of fittings should I use? I'm a n00b with hardware.

Proper PVC glue forms a chemical bond with PVC, epoxy is only mechanical, if you cut a tee across the straight bit, so it clips over the wye and glue it, the just fit the tee to the stock however it suits.

Zeus wrote:Proper PVC glue forms a chemical bond with PVC, epoxy is only mechanical, if you cut a tee across the straight bit, so it clips over the wye and glue it, the just fit the tee to the stock however it suits.

Uhh... Whats a tee and wye? Is it the pipe fitting? Or can i have a diagram of sorts?

Wye is a fitting that looks like a Y

Gun Freak wrote:Wye is a fitting that looks like a Y

Ohhhhh get a tee fitting cut in half and fit onto the wye. But at this point, i would much rather epoxy the stock to the pvc. If I sand the pvc, will epoxy be strong enough?

This is a wye
http://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product ... 6_AS01.JPG

This is Tee

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/v/vsp ... -007-2.jpg

The tee can be epoxied with no problem, but I'd highly recommend bonding the tee to the wye with PVC glue. If you can screw it to the stock it'll be stronger, but I'll leave that up to you.

why not make it like this

Here's how I would have gone about it, with the High Standard HS-10 in mind:

- full length suppressor packed with steel wool

- compact bullpup configuration, maximum barrel length for minimum overall length

- fancy AR ignitor grip from USG

- smaller chamber:barrel volume ratio to keep power up and a quiet shot - have a look at this data from Burnt Latke's excellent site.

You can buy a cheap airsoft shotgun and hack the body up for parts like buttstock and pistol grip.

I don't like the testing method. I think the barrel should have a fixed length, and a variable chamber length. That way you can really see what C:B ratio is optimal.
This is a very good test for optimal barrel lengths however.

When packing a supressor with steel wool, make sure you don't use very fine steel wool, as it will burn, thus melting your supressor. (I have personal experience )

Crna Legija wrote:why not make it like this

I though about that, but I decided I wanted the wye to point up instead for aesthetic purposes, as well as not having to attach both a stock and a handle.
Also note that the cannon is a breech loader and the handle would interfere with that. the barrel screws on and screws off in such a way that would allow me to use shells.