SpudFiles

right.... which makes your piston... like...2 dollars or less....

PVC type II rod is possibly the best piston material. It offers high impact strength and tensile strength (which are important), and is sold at a little under a dollar per inch (about $11 for 2" PVC type II rod)

noname, what do you mean when you say the piston can hold over 300 PSI? Why would it need to?

EDIT: when can we expect pictures? I know your building it now, but I just need a rough estimate

I'd feel more comfortable buying a piston from rmich732 than noname. He's actually made a few nice pistons already.

I still dont understand how it costs 20 dollars in parts to make a valve.

2" rod is probably good, but I don't have a lathe. It makes things considerably harder to do. And making o-ring grooves in solid Delrin is very hard and I've only cut one so far, which is too deep. Expect pics by next week at the latest. I could put it together without glue or screws first though.

since i dont have a lathe, i am looking for someone to machine me a pretty nice 3" piston for a coaxial, with a 1.5" sealing face. pm me with pricing and details and such. i have tried a few different pistons and they are not working very well. thanks alot !

noname: put up a picture before it is all glued together. Its been weeks since you posted this thread, and everyone cannot answer your question (Would people buy valves) without seeing them first!

Markfh11q: Thanks man

OK IM NOT FLAMING YOU NONAME THESE ARE SERIOUS.

How can you make O-ring grooves and shape delrin without a lathe? It wont be made to perfection?

O-rings aren't nessecary on all valves.

he said that this was a chamber sealing valve... so I am pretty sure that orings ARE necessary... could be wrong though

so...how is he shaping delrin and cutting perfect grooves without a lathe....

Its possible with a dremel. Milhrad do you know what a dremel is, if you dont please google it.

if we are on the topic of valves here's my question.

on a coaxial barrel sealing type gun how far away does the piston need to come back from the barrel to get as much air flow as possible?

i gave my mini 1 1/2" chamber 1/2" barrel 2" to fly back. unfortunatley i didnt use a spring and the piston flew through the back of my threaded cap

I belive he knows what one is. Its the fact that he is using such a innacurate tool for something that requires you to be presice. Its like cutting butter with a chainsaw down to .001", it is simply not going to be as nice as if you were to use a tool designed for the job. If I recall right BLB stated that 5-10% squeeze is ideal for a sliding seal for a oring. Lets say your using a .125" thick oring. If I figured this right that means that each percentage of squeeze is tolerant to .00125". The cross-feed on a 8x12 HF lathe is only accurate down to .002"!!! With a dremel I couldnt see anyone even touching .01". Even at that your allowing your squeeze to deviate around 8% while being that precise.

Morale of the story being that a dremel is WAY to inaccurate for the job. Either your going to end up with leaks, or compensating with a higher squeeze lessing performance and most likely still having leaks. Do I need to further discuss this?!