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Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 7:14 pm
by zeigs spud
wow...i can't beleive u acualy messed with it till you worked al that out.i just use my camera ignition with my minishampoo bottel camera so i just have to squeeze the sides to fire it.

with your model u put pics up of would u have to keep adding wire or replacing it becuase
1-it should be copper or mabey iron (though iron issn't the best conducter)
2- becuase of the conducters being exposed the electricity jumps and since the path is small it "burns" part of the wire down.

so wouldn't you need to add or trim upp the wires? or am i not getting how your ignition works?

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:21 pm
by Killjoy
ive never had any problems with it and have never had to add wire. at the most i had to adjust the spark gap because i either
1)dropped the cannon or
2)fired it about 20 times.
it does burn part of the wire but its such a small amount that it really doesn't effect it.

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:37 pm
by mark.f
This is the exact way I played around with camera spark gaps. I got the idea from the Wiki, though. Really works great!

Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:02 pm
by SpudStuff
If the wire is a high guage it has more resistance and makes it hard for the curret to travel. That will result in a smaller gap.

Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:36 am
by FiveseveN
Resistance is ( length * resistivity ) / cross-sectional area. So the thicker and shorter the wire, the less resistance it will have.