SpudFiles

I was thinking about this concept on my walk to college a few days ago. Decided to draw it up on Paint.

Basically, the small bore tube lets air back behind the piston/QEV causing it re-seal. Dunno if it would work, just an idea.


The piston/mag fed version

the QEV/badly drawn one

It's not going to work, unless you dissalow flow while the piston is forwards. Reason is simple - if the 'leak' has enough flow to allow the piston to move forwards again, it'll have enough flow to keep it from coming back in the first place.
As an idea, one might be able to drill a hole in the piston so that it only matches up with the inlet (to the pilot volume) when the piston has moved back.

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yea lol have you seen my auto pnu post before u posted yours? it's like the same thing but it has a postion, and thats not really having to with the automatic part...lol srry for pic but i found it and thought it was funny.

F*cking wierd man. This morning I couldn't sleep, and was thinking on the same concept

I "designed" a three way piston valve on wich i couple the pilote exhaust, the little chamber behind the piston, and the tube you call the "leak" up here. I was busy disigning the plans, when i needed to go to work. I will finish them soon, and post them here.

A simple spring probably would solve all of your problems...

Also, what if you added a one-way check valve to the hose? That would probably work

Hmm If your trying to build a semi/full auto gun why not build my mmg?

Ok, here is my design. What I miss in the upper design is some kind of valve that stops the airflow to the pilotchamber when the gun is triggered. I found a sollution for that :



The sollution you see as number 1 :
A sort of piston valve, that uses a hollow piston. As you can see, on the left side air at a pressure of 100 psi is feeded to the valve. The piston stands in the forward stand, so the air can flow to the pilot chamber of the main valve of the gun. In the mechanism of "1" you see a spring. This needs to be a very strong spring, to hold the 100 psi. The moving part in the valve has 5 O-rings (the black dots, but you figured that out yourself i guess)

Like this, the gun is in a non firing state. Now when you pull back the moving part, the airflow from the airtank is sealed of, and the airpressure in the pilote valve wil drop, cause the air can flow away trough the right tube at 1. I forgot however to draw the pulling mechanism. It could be just a tiny metal bar soldered or welded to the moving part, wich can be pulled back with a keyring, or you could figure out areal trigger mechanism on that one. Enough room for improvisation.

Anyway, whan you pull it back, the pilote pressure drops, and the gun starts to fire. This is why I use a high pressure tank (300 psi or more) (number 4) and a regulater, or how do you call that thing that reduces pressure (number 3) In that case we have a quite long and continues flow of air and pressure for shooting the gun.

Now when you releas the trigger, the moving part moves up again (in valve number 1), sealing of the exhaust and letting in air in the pilote valve. The main valve closes again, due to the airpressure behind it, and the spring. That's why there need to be a spring. It doesn't need to be a very strong one, but one anyway.

Now what dou you guys thing about that ? Not bad, figuring that out, lying awake in my bed, hay

Hay, not bad at all. I couldnt find any flaws. GREAT DESIGN .

I built a gun like that and IT DOES WORK. But you have to drill hole and put ear plugs in like half way to make sur the ball does not roll or you lose all youre ammo.