Easiest Hammer Valve
- Lockednloaded
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I was making a push-button pilot for an un-regged co2 gun when I came across a simpler option. I got fed up with it, so I ordered a brass push-button valve from mcmaster (6790T42). It handles unregged co2 perfectly, and can be opened just by pushing down on it with your thumb! Its perfect for a hammer valve, so I hooked it up directly to my co2 tank and all I need is a proper hammer mech. Its so simple and clean!
I would like some help with the actual hammer though
I would like some help with the actual hammer though
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- omniscient
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If;
<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#6790t42/=aazvl5">(6790T42)</a>
Then why is it only rated at 300psi?"It handles unregged co2 perfectly..."
<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#6790t42/=aazvl5">(6790T42)</a>
- Lockednloaded
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it must have a huge safety margin. QEVs are rated to 150psi normally, but the are regularly used well above that
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- omniscient
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CO2 is over 800psi @ 70*F and when flowing unregulated, can freeze a valve, when the valve is wide open... even momentarily.Lockednloaded wrote:it must have a huge safety margin. QEVs are rated to 150psi normally, but the are regularly used well above that
I would highly recommend using a regulator to drop the pressure well below 300psi, as guessing on a safety margin of over 2-1/2 times is not wise.
- Lockednloaded
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I know the dangers of co2, and I know what types of forces I am dealing with, so I know I'm totally fine
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High-pressure push-button pilot? Here. Much like Tech's QDV, but it's springloaded so it'll shut again once it's vented. Can't find the thread with the video though...
I'd be concerned about your QEV's diaphragm... like omniscient says, the pressure drop will cause a big temperature drop, especially since you're starting from room temperature.
I'd be concerned about your QEV's diaphragm... like omniscient says, the pressure drop will cause a big temperature drop, especially since you're starting from room temperature.
- Lockednloaded
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I didn't say anything about a QEV, I'm firing air gun pellets with this as the firing valve. This is a factory made valve, so I didn't have to modify anything, I'm not keen to use modified parts with un regulated co2
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I was thinking the same thing D_Hall... CO2 can have some bad results if not handled correctly. I've had it freeze valves open before.
Not saying you shouldn't use it, just saying that you should make sure you take the necessary precautions when handling it.
Not saying you shouldn't use it, just saying that you should make sure you take the necessary precautions when handling it.
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I am confident in this valve's integrity, I have personally dismantled it and I found no weak links. It's a machined brass body, so the very worst thing that could happen is the valve opening, which is high unlikely after what tests have shown. It held 2000psi over night, so I don't doubt it's strength
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Apologies, I thought this was for use in another project.Lockednloaded wrote:I didn't say anything about a QEV
I suggest doing some tests with the CO2 first. The problem isn't the pressure... and if I'm patronizing here, please forgive me. The temperature issue with using a propellant gas like CO2 comes from the fact that it's at room temperature, and thus can cool valves, seals, and other connections. Using a gas compressed on-site and used soon after compressing doesn't have the same issues because the gas heats on compression, and is still pretty hot just before it's decompressed. The biggest worry I'd have is that I'd get a valve frozen open and the thrust produced tears the gun out of my hands, damaging said hands and various other objects. Even just doing some leak tests on my ball valves with some 1,000psi air, when I vent the compressed volume (keeping in mind that these are ball valves) by opening one of the valves partway, it kicks back so hard I've lost my grip on it before.
Some simple (and safe!) testing should resolve any concerns.
- Lockednloaded
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Safety is paramount for me, so what tests do you recommend? I left it over night and tried it in the morning with the co2 tank tilted in every direction.
again: does anyone know a good hammer design? I don't care if its bulky, I just need it to be fairly simple
again: does anyone know a good hammer design? I don't care if its bulky, I just need it to be fairly simple
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Do an initial dry-fire test where you're fully expecting all valves to freeze/get stuck open and dump the entire CO2 tank. Remotely trigger the valve (like with a length of rope), and have it attached to a very heavy object (bricks?) and backed against something that'll take the possible "recoil." (large rock/building)
What's wrong with BTB's design? If you put a significant flow restriction before the valve it'll behave like a hammer, right?
What's wrong with BTB's design? If you put a significant flow restriction before the valve it'll behave like a hammer, right?
- Lockednloaded
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i dry fired it until the bottle was empty, I could open the valve by hitting it with my hand. there wasn't any recoil because its just releasing a small amount of gas
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- Gaderelguitarist
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If you can easily depress the button at those pressures, why bother with a hammer mechanism?
Just create a trigger piece to actuate the valve. That's the most simple solution, and will make it easier to achieve semi and full auto firing depending on your loading setup.
Just create a trigger piece to actuate the valve. That's the most simple solution, and will make it easier to achieve semi and full auto firing depending on your loading setup.
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