Difference between revisions of "Muzzle loading"

(Expanded the section on venting and muzzle knifes)
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* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.  
 
* Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.  
  
Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent hole thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.
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Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight [[ammo]] from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small [[valve]] of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent hole thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.
  
If you are loading a standard combustion gun, the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the chamber and to avoid the need of any type of vent. For pneumatic launchers, it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve to allow the excess air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.
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If you are loading a standard [[Combustion cannon|combustion gun]], the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the [[chamber]] and to avoid the need of any type of vent. For [[Pneumatic cannon|pneumatic launchers]], it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve to allow the excess air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.
  
It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce (spuds, zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or [[spud cutter]]. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.
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It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce ([[potato|spuds]], zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or [[spud cutter]]. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.
  
If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument.
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If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your spud cutter as a separate instrument.
  
 
It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.
 
It is generally '''not''' a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.

Revision as of 14:27, 4 June 2008

The standard way of doing things, because it is the cheapest and easiest to make; in fact, it is not possible to make a launcher that cannot be muzzle-loaded.

To muzzle-load a spudgun:

  • Get a (straight) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.
  • Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.
  • Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.

Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (~1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gases from shooting out of the vent hole thus decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.

If you are loading a standard combustion gun, the cleanout plug can be removed to prevent pressurization of the chamber and to avoid the need of any type of vent. For pneumatic launchers, it is sometimes possible to open a bleed port on the valve to allow the excess air to escape as the projectile is rammed home.

It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planning to shoot produce (spuds, zucchinis, etc.). This is called a "muzzle knife" or spud cutter. If just the outside edge of the muzzle is sharpened, a "single bevel knife", the ammo will be cut so that it's outside diameter is the same as the barrel's inside diameter. The fit will be very nearly air tight. For combustion guns, somewhat better performance can be obtained by adding a small bevel to the inside of the muzzle as well, a "double bevel knife". With a double bevel knife the ammo is cut so that it's diameter is slightly larger then the ID of the barrel. As the ammo is loaded it is compressed giving a very tight fit, very little gas leakage when firing, and increased static friction which is beneficial for combustion guns.

If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your spud cutter as a separate instrument.

It is generally not a good idea to load a gun that is otherwise ready to fire. A pneumatic gun should have the ammo loaded before the chamber is pressurized.