6-inch dia. chamber?

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Postby Drew Rowland » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:32 pm

I've got a 30" segment of 6" I'd be willing to part with for a very reasonable price. Say $5 + Shipping?

Also, it's the grey stuff that US Plastics sells. It gives a cannon really nice contrast if your not planning on painting it.
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Postby SpudStuff » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:53 pm

10" fittings are like in the $100's for a tee.
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Postby altxf4 » Tue Dec 12, 2006 12:13 am

Furg is expensive for off the street people, but you you buy in enough quantities and have an account with them you can get stuff for so cheap! Same thing at John Deer Landscaping.

I save alot on 6" fittings. I can get caps, couplings, and 6" to 4" SS reduc bsch. If anybody wants me to look more into it i can.
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Postby FLONE » Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:05 pm

So what choice of barrel? 3" would be probably be a minimum of 5 feet, better to go to 6 feet. Gotta be loud enough to wake the dead too. Can't wait to see the results though, I've also thought along those lines. Over/under with a pistol grip incorporated into the barrel stabilizer. Triple ignitors with propane and a fan. The 3" schedule 40 elbows @ Mcmaster measure 5-13/16" tall each. With a bit of trimming before assembly the elbows would park the barrel at the right height for the pistol grip. Might look a bit obscene depending on how well the grip is designed. When it's done ship it off to that guy that loves recoil, let him shoot it with a full 24 ounce MT DEW!
I really believe the noise might cause problems. Go 4 it!!
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Postby SpudStuff » Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:36 pm

You do not want to modify any fittings that will be used for ANY pressure. Just a bad idea.

I would reccomend using a street elbow to get the fittings closer together. If you have the money make the chamber removable and all pressure rated so you can use it on a Pneumatic in the future if you choose to.
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Postby FLONE » Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:40 pm

You are probably correct about modifying. In the absence of having actual parts in front of me my very rough estimate is that it would leave at least 3" of joined area between the elbows. In that the elbows are schedule 40 and are sleeved with schedule 40 pipe and the peak pressures in combustion spudders run low, I wonder if it really would be an issue. Street elbows are an excellent option that I had not considered. My thought is if the net result of 1 street and 1 regular elbow was too short it would be more of a problem to extend the joint than to trim 2 regular elbows.
So, I guess the order should have 2 regular elbows and at least 1 street elbow!!
Just looked at Mcmaster, no street bigger than 2". Back to the drawing board!

Elbows arrived from Mcmaster. What a wonderful place, glad I read it on the Forum. If doing an over/under with the 3" schedule 40 elbows a 3" schedule 40 barrel will clear the chamber by about 2 1/2".
2 1/2" elbows for a tennis ball barrel will clear by about 2 1/4". Not enough for a hand grip as part of the barrel stabilizer.
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Postby FLONE » Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:23 pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mpuninske
[br]I would like to make my next spud gun using a 6X24 combustion chamber. Any thoughts?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

So how is the project going?
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Postby Navigator7 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 6:55 pm

Gluing 6" PVC is a bitch.
You only got one try. If you can't afford goof up's...don't try it.
<img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j18/Navigator7/Nav7.jpg">
I built a custom fixture that captured my fittings in a vee and allowed me to use a fulcrum to press and hold the fittings in place.
It was a 2x12x 10' with a bunch of wooden cleats nailed or screwed in that captured the curvy pipe and elbows. I used a custom wooden pry bar made from oak to make the push. Never mind about the twist...you don't have time.
I wanted to build with a 6" cross. $269.00 plus shipping. LMAO!

I think all the pipe coming out of the 6" chamber should be scd 80.
I used scd 80 close nipples and replaced them twice before I saw the need for a ratchet strap to reduce the cantilevered shock load transmitted by the offset barrel.

This cannon is not noisy. 7.5 cubic feet of chamber and 11 feet of barrel. It should be even longer.
My 8 foot "Liberal" barrel is noisy...and gets no results. ;-)

Powerful? Uhhuh! (Nodding head in a big yesiree)
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Postby markfh11q » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:41 am

Nav, did you use the heavy duty cement? That stuff dries a little slower than normal cement, giving you more time to make the weld properly. Me and my friends are needing to glue a little six inch... I figure with three people we should be able to do it.
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Postby Navigator7 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:59 am

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by markfh11q
[br]Nav, did you use the heavy duty cement? That stuff dries a little slower than normal cement, giving you more time to make the weld properly. Me and my friends are needing to glue a little six inch... I figure with three people we should be able to do it.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Oh yes....and Fresh glue.

I bullnosed the pipe ends, lightly sanded the glue surfaces, used acetone to clean it,...there was no time and way to twist.....especially with an elbow or tee.
It needs to be really close or your just gluing scrap together.
By the time you realize your weldment is not perfect...too late.

The irrigation outfit said the farmers don't bother to twist either.

If your doing a straight section have at her....but if you push something on and don't keep pushing the fitting can push itself back off...or freeze coming back.
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