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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:25 pm
by ShowNoMercy
Hey as you all probaly I bought a supah valve last year and it has been pretty awesome, but it has been sitting around for a while and I tried to charge up my cannon today and the valve did not close. I tried to tap it with a rubber mallet, that didnt work and when I unscrewed the back end it refused to come out. The valve goes up to about an 1/8 of inch before the intake and then stops. Any help would be much appreciated.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:50 pm
by fullmetaljacket
try changing the o-rings and re-lube?

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:02 pm
by ShowNoMercy
How would I do that if the assembly doesn't come apart? Right now I have it set up so I need to put air in behind the piston and that seals it and then I can charge the camber.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:48 pm
by sgort87
Does the piston move at all? If the piston is moving but air still comes out then the front seal is worn.

I am currently fixing two Supahs for someone and I noticed Joel uses some pretty soft rubber that doesn't stand up to time as well as it could if it were harder rubber. Just pop open the valve and make a new rubber seal for it.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:55 pm
by frankrede
take the screws out and safely pressurize to a very low pressure and maybe the valve will come apart. Plug the exaust on your piston valve with a threaded plug.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:46 am
by sgort87
No, you take the valve and sit it in a vise and use a mallet to take it apart. The grey part should be hanging in the jaws while the tee sits on top of the jaws. The vise should NOT be tightened. MARK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE CAP WITH THE TEE! You will be once pissed off guy when it takes you 24 tried to align the back cap correctly later on. Then take a rod and a rubber mallet and carefully knock out the assembly from the back. If you can hit the direct center of the piston face, this will help get the valve apart easier because you will actually be hitting the guide rod. Doing it this way makes it so you don't have to worry about the spring absorbing your hammer hits.

Once open, you will see 3 screws on the piston's washer. Remove them and keep them separate from all those other screws because they are different, but not by much. You can make a new rubber seal by tracing a circular object of similar size. (I used a small solvent welding can's bottome edge.) The seal should have a diameter of about 1/8" more than the metal washer.

Once this washer is cut, take a 1/4" hose barb and knock it with a hammer on the seal you cut to make holes like the original seal. Use the original as a stencil when doing this. These holes are for your equalization ports. To make the holes for the screws just screw right through them or use a smaller hose barb to knock holes.

Put all this back together and be sure to use oil on both sides of the rubber seal.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:07 pm
by ShowNoMercy
Ok well as of now it works with putting some pressure behind the piston before the first shooting and ever shot after that the piston seals back up, so I am not gonna take it apart after I weighed the gains of taking it apart versus the pain in the ass to put it back together. I added some soap detergent to the piston and after a face full of soap suds I figured that it worked well enough and have put the cannon back together. So as soon as it gets warm around here I will paint it and post pics. Thanks for the help.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 7:26 pm
by Velocity
This is kinda random, but...

I just took apart my Supah valve 10 minutes ago. I just picked up my project today from school (which had two Supah valves), and I was just seeing if they were OK. I used a piece of plastic to disengage the piston mechanism. You need to use substantial force to dislodge it. Everything seemed to be correct, so I added white lithium grease and screwed it back together

One thing that pisses me off is that some idiot was moving my cannon in school, and accidentally scraped it against the ground, causing a large section of the Supah valve tee and bulkhead to be scraped off. I don't think it has any safety issues, but I wish they would have shown more respect to something that cost over $100 [:(!]

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:44 pm
by Navigator7
My valves were acting up after a winter. I squirted some ZEP-45 inside and the problem went away.
Usage also seem to free them up.
Mostly ...mine have been trouble free.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:50 pm
by Velocity
For those who like pictures:

<a href="">Two Valves Together</a>
<a href="">Scraped Valve on Left</a>

The pictures make the Supah Valves look a lot dirtier than they actually are