Piece of @#$% Canteloupe Cannon!

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Postby BewareOfDog » Fri Jun 03, 2005 12:13 am

<b><u>Phase 2</u></b>
I went with L13's advice, but installed a 1" Orbit valve on each of the 3" valves. It just seemed like a better idea to have the air dump straight out of the top of the diaphragm, and hopefully it will actuate quicker.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b><u>draculon</u></b>
...What do you plan to shoot <i>at?</i><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
A Piece Of [excrement] 1997 Saturn that has a blown head gasket. I'm hoping to hit the center pillar that is between the front and the rear door...Seems to be the strongest part of the side of the car, so why not?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b><u>syco kilaa</u></b>
...from the pictues the "tee" that is being used looks mighty thin, or is that just me?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It's just you. The "tee" is a SPEARS SCH40 NSF pw (part # 401-060)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b><u>jasonsmithmyer</u></b>
This is off topic but, I was just wondering why you added the picture with the pumkin puking in the toilet to the "long-view" picture?...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Just for a goof.- The picture is the same as my sig, and I'd make it looks as though a pumpkin was so scared at the sight of the cannon...well, never mind.

I'm almost done with it and the cannon is actually "ready to fire", but there's quite a bit of cosmetic work left to do.
Here are a few more pictures of what I did tonight:
<a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/CC2A.JPG">Long-View</a>
<a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/CC2B.JPG">Rear Angled-View</a>
<a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/CC2C.JPG">Fuzzy close-up of the modded valves:evil:
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Postby ryanpowell167 » Fri Jun 03, 2005 1:05 am

Holy crap, that thing is going to be friggin awesome. Id get a ball valve though, the flow is better. Good work
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Postby plasticex009 » Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:00 am

You may want to move the triggering mechanism so you can stand to the side of the launcher. When a launcher fails, the pieces are usually directed rearwards. A few thrust blocks behind the tee couldn't hurt either to minimize the risk of pieces breaking from the recoil force.
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Postby luckythirteen13 » Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:04 am

personally id make the trigger hose longer but thats just me. is it done or do you plan to do anything to brace it from recoil?

f*ck that thing is beautiful. cant what to see what it can do.
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Postby clide » Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:19 am

What a beast, I can't wait to see some damage shots from this thing. The 1" valves really put it in perspective.
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Postby UnrealityisReal » Fri Jun 03, 2005 9:17 am

I'm just curious... how much money do you think you'll be dropping on this gun?
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Postby luckythirteen13 » Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:09 am

^^^^ thats a good question. id like to know too. then again, DR seems to get a lot of stuff for free
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Postby theexp » Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:59 pm

I'll give you five bucks if you can hold it, while shooting[:p].

THat thing is a beast. You should take some vids of it shooting through the saturn.:D
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Postby draculon » Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:34 pm

^^^ Yes, I second theexp's notion. Seeing a canteloupe go through a car at 400 fps would be a sight to behold. I also think that you should make the trigger hose longer. If it did fail, you wouldn't want to be anywhere near it.
By the way DR, where the hell do you get all these big valves?
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Postby BewareOfDog » Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:19 pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b><u>plasticex009</u></b>
You may want to move the triggering mechanism so you can stand to the side of the launcher. When a launcher fails, the pieces are usually directed rearwards. A few thrust blocks behind the tee couldn't hurt either to minimize the risk of pieces breaking from the recoil force.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I hadn't thought of that! I threw it together (as you see it) last night just to test-fire it. I think thast I'll take your advice and move it somewhere else.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b><u>luckythirteen13</u></b>
...is it done or do you plan to do anything to brace it from recoil?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I plan on making U-bolts out of 1/4-20 allthread, the same as I did for the Combustion version of this cannon. 2-3 U-bolts will wrap around the pipe on the chambers, and one on each side of the Tee fitting.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b><u>UnrealityisReal</u></b>
I'm just curious... how much money do you think you'll be dropping on this gun?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Uhhh...so far...$62 on pipe, $200 for valves and <b>all</b> PVC components, $20 for misc. hoses,clamps, fittings, blowgun, & about $25 on wood. Oh, ...and I spent about $14? on a large can of Oatey Weld*On PVC 711 Plastic Pipe Cement. It's GREY, and Heavy-Bodied, is messy and looks like [excrement]!

I had the 1" modded valves lying around...(about $22 for the valves and fittings). I had to buy another large can of PVc Cleaner ($8)...Then you gotta take into account the wood screws, Teflon tape, blah,blah,blah-

The chambers wouldn't pressurize past 30psi after the initial test-fire.
The 3" Valves have a screw-in plug that was originally on the bottom of the valve, which was removed and placed on the valve's side. With Teflon tape, it leaked like a whore on saturday night. I removed it, took the Teflon tape off, and applied a liberal amount of Oatey GREAT WHITE Pipe Joint Compound w/Teflon* (part #31230) This stuff works great, is made for high pressure, and sealed the leak!

I had to take the 3" valves apart (<b>twice</b>) and vacuum out the PVC shavings from when I tapped in the fittings on the chambers. Then, I had to take the 1" valves apart and clean them also. While I had the 1" valves apart, I removed the small plastic "bleed-hole filter?". This made a HUGE difference in the reliabilty of the upper diaphragms sealing, and also when you actuate the valves. I even accidently sliced the upper diaphragm slightly with the razor blade that I used to cut off the filters, but it still works.

The initial dry test-fire was at a mere 60psig, and wasn't as loud as I expected. The second dry test-fire (at 80psig) proved to be a little louder, and moved the entire assembly back about an inch, even though one leg bracing the table that it was sitting on. The third dry test-fire (at 100psig) ...was pretty damn loud. My dog pissed herself, and one of my neighbors came over to ask me what the hell I was doing, and if I was alright. Besides, my 2 gallon compressor will probably drop it's nuts if I attempted any more tests with it.

The whole assembly definitely needs to be bolted to it's base before I attempt to fire any ammo. I really don't trust the two ratchet straps for some reason. And if I simply ran the other two ratchet straps across the Tee, it would probably look too "busy". Once again, I've got something that works, but it pales in comparison (aesthetically) to the Mega-Launchers that our Commander-in-Chief builds.

P.S.
"clide", and "theexp" :
Thank you for the comments about it being a beast!
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