Piece of @#$% Canteloupe Cannon!

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered launchers here. This includes discussion about valves, ratios, compressors, and anything else relevant to launchers powered by compressed gas.

Postby Navigator7 » Mon Jun 20, 2005 8:20 pm

DR,
I don't have much experience with the speed at which sprinklers dump. My two Supahs dump within a second of squeezing the blowgun with about 8' of hose. I meebie lose 1 pound of pressure in my chamber before firing.
Before you buy the small sprinklers to activate to activate the large sprinkler....why not just tee some 3/8" hose and try it?

What I really think is needed is for the two length of hose coming from the 3" valves is to be equal length and short.

Wrathet straps work good for me but the lead must be right from the get go.

Also....if you get any projectile down by the manifold, make sure there is no way they can even slightly hook on anything on the way out. I made a projectile out of a 2.5" pipe and caps and blew my manifold all apart.

Utah huh?
Not far from Eastern WA??? Tonasket?
Navigator7
 
Posts: 2635
Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: USA
 

Postby BewareOfDog » Mon Jun 20, 2005 8:30 pm

Nav7, as I said, I removed the 1" pilot valve off of each of the 3" valves. As of the time of my last post, I had two 3/8" lines of equal length dumping out of a TEE fitting through a 1/4" ball valve.

To be clear, My problem is that I'm pissed that I have to pressurize the <b>top</b> of the diaphragm before pressurizing the chamber. Otherwise, the diaphragm will not seat correctly. The problem is that the diaphragm (at times) will peel itself out of the groove that it rests in...
which doesn't make any [intercourse]ing sense! There should be no possible way that the diaphragm is dislodged so violently. - But then again, the valve was nenver designed to "dump" as fast as it does either. It's meant to open slowly and close slowly- so maybe it's as simple as the fact that it's a [excrement]tier made valve than an ORBIT WaterMaster? (for what we use them for)
BewareOfDog
 
Posts: 4306
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2003 12:37 am
Location: USA
 

Postby ryanpowell167 » Mon Jun 20, 2005 10:38 pm

If its only one spot that its unseating, try a dab of epoxy or something to hold it. Dont do all thw way around or anything though. Or maybe add sometihing to the inner lip to hold it more tightly. See what im gettin at?
ryanpowell167
 
Posts: 794
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 8:00 pm
Location: USA
 

Postby pbmann123 » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:05 am

dr do you mean the groove when the edge sits between the upper and lower part of the valve caseing. if so check to see if it is as deep as a quality valve. that might be the reason for litpping. if its not that then im clueless....... such a beautiful gun i'de hate to see it go to waste.
pbmann123
 
Posts: 684
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:48 pm
Location: Canada
 

Sponsored

Sponsor
 
 

Postby Navigator7 » Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:12 am

DR,
Sounds like your diaphram needs some Viagra rubbed on it.
I betcha if it was stiffer, you would see improved performance!

Any chance of making a home built gasket with a heavier durometer?

There is no doubt some serious violence is occurring in an area reserved for water.
Time for some destructive testing?
I'm visualzing some form of liquid rubber or something poured on top of your existing gasket to resist the violence at firing. (Provided you can get a good bond.)
Navigator7
 
Posts: 2635
Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: USA
 

Postby Krazy_K » Tue Jun 21, 2005 1:16 am

Are both diaphragms unseating because then you would know something isn't right, and does it happen to them both at the same time or on different shots? I'd say try a little super glue in the groove that the edge sits in, that might help. But it would be a shame to see such a great gun with so much time and money in it go to waste, maybe you could get a supah or two if the sprinklers don't work out.
Krazy_K
 
Posts: 295
Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 2:03 pm
Location: USA
 

Postby ybott » Tue Jun 21, 2005 5:49 am

If you can live with this suggestion it might just work :

Have some small pipe connecting the top of the diaphrams to the chamber (maybe with pressure restrictors (reg probably, but there might be something cheaper ?), then when you pressurize the chamber, the top of the diaphrams will also be pressurized.

This should work if you cant mod the valves well enough.
ybott
 
Posts: 611
Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 3:12 pm
Location: United Kingdom
 

Postby BewareOfDog » Wed Jun 22, 2005 12:21 am

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ybott
[br]If you can live with this suggestion it might just work :

Have some small pipe connecting the top of the diaphrams to the chamber (maybe with pressure restrictors (reg probably, but there might be something cheaper ?), then when you pressurize the chamber, the top of the diaphrams will also be pressurized.

This should work if you cant mod the valves well enough.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">ybott...are you [intercourse]in' with me or what? (in case you're NOT:)
Look at my reply at the top of this page (page 3)...posted by: ME on Jun 20 2005 : 20:30:09


Anyway... the problem is that there is no longer a "guide rod", and you cannot very well expect a 10 pound (<---exaGGERATION) diaphragm assembly to unseat PERFECTLY at 400 times the speed in which it was originally designed to move at...with a different "fluid"...and WITH a guide rod.

I got it to work (as I stated)- but it was a LOT more of a royal PITA than just modifying an ORBIT valve.

Looking at the "postive" side, it was a learning experience!;)
BewareOfDog
 
Posts: 4306
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2003 12:37 am
Location: USA
 
 
Previous

Return to Pneumatic Launchers

cron