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Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 11:38 pm
why did you put a hole in the piston
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 1:37 am
For equilization. So it can get air from the pilot to the chambers. Just go here http://forums.spudtech.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13265
if you need to learn about piston valves and how they work.
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 2:07 am
And the flap of rubber works like a check valve allowing air into the chamber but not out.
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 2:13 am
Man spudstuff, we need to get to bed. Why are we up past midnight talking about random spudgun stuff that won't even assist us in our conquest to rule the earth with High velocity starchy vegetable acceleration devices?
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 2:14 am
It's only 11:14 here. We got half the day off. The thing says it is like 2:57 PM. Why?
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:03 pm
time zones. It's for over in the midwest, or east coast. I'm here in mountain time.
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:09 pm
I was going to make one of those but i dont have the right pipe for the size i need
. Foxxlords site has some useful stuff.
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:03 pm
Wouldn't a either a chamber sealing valve or a barrel sealing valve would work better?
which one do you think actually will work the best
by the way, nice cannon
Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 1:29 am
Trust me right now, unless you have a lathe at your house you do not want to even attempt a chamber sealing piston. I did and I think I came to disaster #10 with 4-5 different pistons. I don't know how many times I screwed up. Just know this, barrel sealing is easier and it is debateable whether barrel sealing or chamber sealing is better. Gort makes a really good barrel sealing valve(Mauler) and we're waiting on data comparing it to a Supah valve, a chamber sealing valve. That we give us a pretty definative word as to which is better.
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:34 pm
thanks for the info, i forgot to mension one,the coaxial
by the way is there any other thing (easier) to make the piston really be non leaking?
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:44 pm
how is a piston vavle any more powerful than a normal sprinkler valve?
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:17 pm
it allows more flow, alot more flow,it opens faster and it can be cheaper
Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:21 pm
Okay no Posts since January but just to get back on topic...Did any one actually try the 2" coupling in the 3" T for over under or 3" pipe for coaxial?
Also on this specific topic (I believe we started with 3" coaxial) if on the end of the 3" chamber coaxial-ed with (for arguments sake) 1 1/2" barrel you put a 3" de-burred coupler/bushing (I hope this is the right term - i mean we remove the factory lip/stop inside the coupler) cant u then use a regular piece of 3" pipe with smaller pipe inside centered support a rubber flap/check valve for a modded piston?
I hope that was clear...sorry first post
but tried to keep it relevant and on topic. And I am interested....
Tanks PC guy for the great site. I have lurked this site for about a year but only now started posting.
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 6:55 pm
Despite this being an astoundingly late reply, what size pvc pipe would fit that piston as the chamber? Cutting the 3 inch makes it slightly non-standard right?
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:03 pm
I went to homedepot and i couldnt find sheet pvc the guy didnt know what it was so i ended up buying sheet metal but now i dont know if my piston will work. I am almost done building my aircannon with a 3 inch piston and a 4 inch chamber but besides that if my piston doesnt work i can always replace it because i have a screw cap just in case if it doesnt work. So if this doesnt work then i am gonna need to make a new one. The only thing i need for my cannon is a schrader valve. So if anyone have any advice that would be appreciated. Tommorow i am gonna put my cannon in the showcase and you'll get to see the specs.