iron pipe presure
-
iknowmy3tables
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how can I identifying it and whether it can take pressure
"does anyone know about cast iron drain pipe"
A" little"
,we still use it in commercial buildings, do tie in's to it some.
connections are going to be different than what you're probably thinking .
old school is to seal the bottom of the fitting bell with oakum (stringy fiber stuff ) and pour lead in as a sealer .
if you had a leak that kicked your butt and you couldn't get to it stop you dumped corn meal/flour and filled it up with water for your rough-in inspection.
closest to that now is service weight pipe and fittings.
the pipe and fitting ends are belled to take rubber like gaskets .i
n theory lube em up and push em in
when you get to medium(3-6") sized stuff the pushing involves a 2x4 and sledge hammer .
Ive never aired up a gasketed joint to see where the push off .similar looking gasketed water lines are buried before they are pressured up
Most of the cast drain systems you'll see now days are no-hub connections
plain ends to pipe and fittings sometimes with a 1/8 in ridge on the end
they use a rubber looking sleeve with a wide metal band around it ,,band clamps tighten it up
if there is a easy way of working with cast iron it's the way.
If I could ask you to do 1 thing
before you go very far you ought a try straightening a broken end of pipe or breaking off chunks off the end of a pipe.
stick a 10 in crescent wrench so your grabbing 1/2 in of pipe from the end ,snug the jaws up ,and hit the wrench outward with the palm of your hand
you can pretty much trim up ends of uneven pipe pretty easy doing this try the same with the junkest piece of pvc that you wouldn't let your worst enemy use that you can find.
on the bright side xrays would pick up the metal shards WHEN it blows
for what it's worth
A" little"
,we still use it in commercial buildings, do tie in's to it some.
connections are going to be different than what you're probably thinking .
old school is to seal the bottom of the fitting bell with oakum (stringy fiber stuff ) and pour lead in as a sealer .
if you had a leak that kicked your butt and you couldn't get to it stop you dumped corn meal/flour and filled it up with water for your rough-in inspection.
closest to that now is service weight pipe and fittings.
the pipe and fitting ends are belled to take rubber like gaskets .i
n theory lube em up and push em in
when you get to medium(3-6") sized stuff the pushing involves a 2x4 and sledge hammer .
Ive never aired up a gasketed joint to see where the push off .similar looking gasketed water lines are buried before they are pressured up
Most of the cast drain systems you'll see now days are no-hub connections
plain ends to pipe and fittings sometimes with a 1/8 in ridge on the end
they use a rubber looking sleeve with a wide metal band around it ,,band clamps tighten it up
if there is a easy way of working with cast iron it's the way.
If I could ask you to do 1 thing
before you go very far you ought a try straightening a broken end of pipe or breaking off chunks off the end of a pipe.
stick a 10 in crescent wrench so your grabbing 1/2 in of pipe from the end ,snug the jaws up ,and hit the wrench outward with the palm of your hand
you can pretty much trim up ends of uneven pipe pretty easy doing this try the same with the junkest piece of pvc that you wouldn't let your worst enemy use that you can find.
on the bright side xrays would pick up the metal shards WHEN it blows
for what it's worth