I'd pick up a piece of HDPE rod stock too, you'll like it, I promise
JSR wants a lathe/mill thread -> JSR buys Sherline
- inonickname
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Depends, how long are those bars?
I'd pick up a piece of HDPE rod stock too, you'll like it, I promise
I'd pick up a piece of HDPE rod stock too, you'll like it, I promise
PimpAssasinG wrote:no im strong but you are a fat gay mother sucker that gets raped by black man for fun
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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The 18mm brass bar is 1 metre long, half a metre of 20mm aluminium, similar length of 16mm brass, the rest of the length you can see in the photo.inonickname wrote:Depends, how long are those bars?
Without postage, one metre of 20mm brass barhereis over $90, so I definitely got a better deal than someone in the UK
Still looking for a local HDPE supplier.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Ohhhh! Very nice!!!Here's a little knife I just made
Well, that's not an outrageous price... not cheap either. Metal IS expensive. My convenient supply for 12mm diameter brass was big bolts, until I found some local supplier.he 18mm brass bar is 1 metre long, half a metre of
I HAZ A BANG!
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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There's a scrap yard not far from where I work, need to check it out.LeMaudit wrote:My convenient supply for 12mm diameter brass was big bolts, until I found some local supplier.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
- inonickname
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It went fairly smoothly... until I was drilling the handle out and the drillbit snapped...it gave me fits. I ended up heating the handle up and dunking it in oil to make the drillbit brittle, then smashing it with a hardened rod and banging it out. Might try a smaller knife or a more intricate design soon.. Suggestions?LeMaudit wrote:Ohhhh! Very nice!!!Here's a little knife I just made
Well, that's not an outrageous price... not cheap either. Metal IS expensive. My convenient supply for 12mm diameter brass was big bolts, until I found some local supplier.he 18mm brass bar is 1 metre long, half a metre of
PimpAssasinG wrote:no im strong but you are a fat gay mother sucker that gets raped by black man for fun
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Now that I have some experience with my lathe, here's a design for a hybrid cartridge that is about as simple as I can think to make it with a burst disk.
There is no pump connection on the valve because the entire cartridge is intended to be placed in a fill chamber.
The epoxy base is essential to insulate the valve from the body to allow the spark to arc across the gap.
I would be more inclined to make a "valveless" cartringe with an adjustable o-ring detent that can hold the projectile at mix pressure but not at ignition pressure.
There is no pump connection on the valve because the entire cartridge is intended to be placed in a fill chamber.
The epoxy base is essential to insulate the valve from the body to allow the spark to arc across the gap.
I would be more inclined to make a "valveless" cartringe with an adjustable o-ring detent that can hold the projectile at mix pressure but not at ignition pressure.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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warhead052
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Awesome! Your is going through with the hybrid cartridges! These will be very cool to see when they are completed.
First I know nothing about hybrid and cartridges... but... I want to learn!
In the meantime this little ball just waiting to fall down was bothering me.
So here's my process of thoughts:
1) Over-engineered just as I love it. More fun to machine too
then I thought... threads are not JSR's best...
so... let's remove them!
2) Why not using a o-ring simply to tighten the disk around?
3) and 4) are just variations with a ring helping the compression.
5) And then
... why not a simple piece of adhesive tape? Too ghetto? Surely it has been done before!
Oh well... a little fun after a very long day at work.
In the meantime this little ball just waiting to fall down was bothering me.
So here's my process of thoughts:
1) Over-engineered just as I love it. More fun to machine too
then I thought... threads are not JSR's best...
2) Why not using a o-ring simply to tighten the disk around?
3) and 4) are just variations with a ring helping the compression.
5) And then
Oh well... a little fun after a very long day at work.
I HAZ A BANG!
If I might ask the lathe gurus, I'm looking at the plain 4100 series, the asking price here is $1,639.00
Is that a total ripoff? Also, if I had such a lathe, could I put on the 17" bed? I believe they are modular, but how much I don't know.
Is that a total ripoff? Also, if I had such a lathe, could I put on the 17" bed? I believe they are modular, but how much I don't know.
/sarcasm, /hyperbole
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warhead052
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I did it with packing tape and my pvc hybrid... Stupid me I know, but it was really loud.LeMaudit wrote:
5) And then... why not a simple piece of adhesive tape? Too ghetto? Surely it has been done before!
![]()
You want the small lathe? Short bed, you sure?
Thefactory price is $US 575
So yes, if your talking $US and without accessories, it IS a total ripoff.
Check the price at Sherline Direct, and a honest retailer in the US will give you about 10% lower because Sherline make very good prices to its retaillers, and if they are not too greedy they will pass the savings on you.
Going from 8" to 17"... I guess you could... but you're aware that for $1200 you have the long lathe full equipped, the whole shebang, right?
if I'm not mistaken you'll have to change the leadscrew $30, the base $84 and the bed $150. I think the rest you should be able to keep. But you should call the factory and confirm that. I'm really not 100% sure.
Here's an exploded view with all the pieces and their references to find them at their web site. That's what I used to give you those few prices. Enjoy!
Thefactory price is $US 575
So yes, if your talking $US and without accessories, it IS a total ripoff.
Check the price at Sherline Direct, and a honest retailer in the US will give you about 10% lower because Sherline make very good prices to its retaillers, and if they are not too greedy they will pass the savings on you.
Going from 8" to 17"... I guess you could... but you're aware that for $1200 you have the long lathe full equipped, the whole shebang, right?
if I'm not mistaken you'll have to change the leadscrew $30, the base $84 and the bed $150. I think the rest you should be able to keep. But you should call the factory and confirm that. I'm really not 100% sure.
Here's an exploded view with all the pieces and their references to find them at their web site. That's what I used to give you those few prices. Enjoy!
I HAZ A BANG!
And on the subject of TOTAL rip off
Given a 1.07/1.00 AUD/USD how on earth can that be justified. Sieg N1 or C1 are about all you can get for $500.
Anyway, my lathe spending got blown this morning on http://www.bikes.com.au/p/1208638/2011- ... -1200.html
Funnily enough it seemed to blow the Wife Tolerance Budget as well......
Try http://lathesonline.com.au/estore/index ... b1151ceb22 $1,642.00 How much can FCL freight from the US be ?LeMaudit wrote:You want the small lathe? Short bed, you sure?
Thefactory price is $US 575
Given a 1.07/1.00 AUD/USD how on earth can that be justified. Sieg N1 or C1 are about all you can get for $500.
Anyway, my lathe spending got blown this morning on http://www.bikes.com.au/p/1208638/2011- ... -1200.html
Funnily enough it seemed to blow the Wife Tolerance Budget as well......
Well I'm in Australia, how would shipping from the US be? I daresay less than this place.
If I can upgrade the 8 inch, I'll go with it, as my plans are quite small, and far more dependant on a mill. I "should" be able to get one early next year, and adding on another $400 max to go 17" won't be too bad.
If I can upgrade the 8 inch, I'll go with it, as my plans are quite small, and far more dependant on a mill. I "should" be able to get one early next year, and adding on another $400 max to go 17" won't be too bad.
/sarcasm, /hyperbole



