solder

Potatoes last one shot, so build reusable! Discuss ammo designs and ideas. Tough to find cannon part or questions? Ask here!
User avatar
roughboy
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 12:43 am

Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:35 am

Are those solder that can be used on "STEEL" safe on high pressures like 500-700psi?
Boys do what they can, Men do what they want
ralphd
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: Niles Ohio

Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:43 am

I wouldn't trust household plumbing solder on anything using more than 500psi even if it has a silver content. You need to get high silver brazing wire and use the proper flux for it. I work in the HVAC industry and the stuff I use requires a oxy/acetylene torch to properly braze fittings. That stuff I trust that high.
User avatar
Biopyro
Corporal 2
Corporal 2
Posts: 654
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 5:32 am
Location: UK

Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:53 pm

Nope. Normal solder doesn't stick to steel in the same way as copper, particuarly if it's stainless steel.

However, a good solder joint on copper will usually hold past the burst pressure of the pipe itself.
Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. -Benjamin Franklin
ralphd
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: Niles Ohio

Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:58 pm

High silver HVAC stuff will stick to stainless but you have to be careful. If you decide this route I can get some info for you.

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/
User avatar
Biopyro
Corporal 2
Corporal 2
Posts: 654
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 5:32 am
Location: UK

Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:07 pm

Oops, totally misread the question, sorry. Usually a good solder or weld joint will las past the pipe itself, because a smaller amount of force is being exerted on it. this may be different for steel, as copper is quite soft, but I imagine I will be fine at 700psi
Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. -Benjamin Franklin
User avatar
john bunsenburner
Sergeant 5
Sergeant 5
Posts: 1446
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:13 am

Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:49 pm

I would definately not recomend household solder for this, instead, as recomended try brazing. It is similar just used higher temperatures, the brazing rods and wires are also fairly expensive(here i pay 30bucks for a foot or so of wire) so it might be cheeper to thread(or otherwise connect) your cannon parts together, that simply depends on the amount of joints you ave to make. Also you have to use the right flux, overall the process requires a bit of practise.

And oen more thing, i have made this mistake and it was very annoying, remember that not everything can withstand 700°C(or even 500). i have fried my fill valve and replacing it was a pretty big pain, and very time consuming. Also certain thin walled pipes start to oxidize("rust") when they are heated eanoth and then they just crumble.
"Did you ever stop to think that out of the seven deadly sins envy is the only one which doesn't give the sinner even momentary pleasure"-George Will
User avatar
inonickname
First Sergeant 4
First Sergeant 4
Posts: 2606
Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 3:27 am

Fri Apr 03, 2009 6:03 pm

john bunsenburner wrote:oxidize("rust")
One word: Carburising.

A carburising flame is just an excess of fuel or lack of oxygen.

Braze it, solder will give you a hell of a time. If you want simplicity and ease then simply use threaded fittings.
PimpAssasinG wrote:no im strong but you are a fat gay mother sucker that gets raped by black man for fun
User avatar
roughboy
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 197
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 12:43 am

Sat Apr 04, 2009 1:49 pm

Threaded fittings it is. Thanks guys!
Boys do what they can, Men do what they want
Post Reply