The Offcial Machinist Thread: Revised 01/04/2014
I hope this isn't way out of place... But does anyone here have facilities for machining crystals? Right now I'm thinking about ZnSe, but possibly others.
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Gun Freak
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Just curious... why?
OG Anti-Hybrid
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
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Fnord
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^^ Someone needs to focus/reflect/transmit lots of intense Infrared light apparently 
Oh and ramses, tube would be more effective. That's what I was thinking of as I typed, but as usual I kinda fialed at comunicaction;
Oh and ramses, tube would be more effective. That's what I was thinking of as I typed, but as usual I kinda fialed at comunicaction;
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Fnord wrote:Also I really like your shell jsr.
Are you making an Attenuated Total Reflectance unitSomeone needs to focus/reflect/transmit lots of intense Infrared light apparently
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Hey all- I need a bolt machined for my rifle. Attached is the PDF file with the necessary dimensions.
I'm pretty sure I remembered to include all of the necessary dimensions, but please let me know if you have any problems with the drawing that you need clarified.
I need this made out of aluminum bar stock.
I'm pretty sure I remembered to include all of the necessary dimensions, but please let me know if you have any problems with the drawing that you need clarified.
I need this made out of aluminum bar stock.
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riflebolt.zip- (105.78 KiB) Downloaded 122 times
"Some say his pet elephant is pink, and that he has no understanding of "PG rated forum". All we know is, he's called JSR. "
I don't see anything on tolerances in that drawing. What are they?
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
Right on. Estimated power is 100-400W, and I'm going to try to do this on the cheap.Fnord wrote:^^ Someone needs to focus/reflect/transmit lots of intense Infrared light apparently
I'll let you answer that one yourself, based on the above numbers...jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Are you making an Attenuated Total Reflectance unit
Good point... I totally forgot about tolerances. I normally dont worry about it when I make things since I don't have the ability to machine that precisely.
I'll add some tolerances in an hour or two and update it.
I'll add some tolerances in an hour or two and update it.
"Some say his pet elephant is pink, and that he has no understanding of "PG rated forum". All we know is, he's called JSR. "
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warhead052
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Can anyone machine the pump head? I need the total outer diameter to be about 1/32" under 3/4", and the oring groove needs to be 1/8" deep, and 3/8" long. Total length needs to be 4", and I need the back part to be drilled and tapped to 7/16" for an all thread rod. I don't care what the material is, as long as it doesn't melt with the pump heating up. Any idea on what it would cost? I am located in Alabama, USA and shipping needs to be low.
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- Pump head 2.JPG (7.22 KiB) Viewed 2412 times
Ok here are the updated drawings.
Added tolerances on the bolt. Also need a wooden block made to the dimensions specified. If i was at home I'd just do it on my table saw, but I'm not so I need that made. doesn't have to be super nice, as it'll just be a mold for forming a magazine.
Let me know if there are any other questions.
EDIT: Should probably add the files...
EDIT 2: DISREGARD THE PLANS I PREVIOUSLY POSTED! Realized I have to change a couple dimensions... standby for some updates tonight.
Thanks all
Added tolerances on the bolt. Also need a wooden block made to the dimensions specified. If i was at home I'd just do it on my table saw, but I'm not so I need that made. doesn't have to be super nice, as it'll just be a mold for forming a magazine.
Let me know if there are any other questions.
EDIT: Should probably add the files...
EDIT 2: DISREGARD THE PLANS I PREVIOUSLY POSTED! Realized I have to change a couple dimensions... standby for some updates tonight.
Thanks all
"Some say his pet elephant is pink, and that he has no understanding of "PG rated forum". All we know is, he's called JSR. "
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jrrdw
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warhead052 wrote:Can anyone machine the pump head? I need the total outer diameter to be about 1/32" under 3/4", and the oring groove needs to be 1/8" deep, and 3/8" long. Total length needs to be 4", and I need the back part to be drilled and tapped to 7/16" for an all thread rod. I don't care what the material is, as long as it doesn't melt with the pump heating up. Any idea on what it would cost? I am located in Alabama, USA and shipping needs to be low.
23/32"nds1/32" under 3/4"
Are you sure you want the groove that long?the oring groove needs to be 1/8" deep, and 3/8" long.
The back would be on the right? The slotted skirt? How deep do you want the hole? Are the slots representing the hole or do you need the slots?back part to be drilled and tapped to 7/16"
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warhead052
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Duh, should have been a bit more detailed. I am a bit rushed for this though... The back part is indeed the right side. I need it about 1 inch deep. If you want to, adjust the oring groove to what you feel would be good to make it like a check valve. The slots on the right side are representing the hole, and left side is the o ring groove.
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sharpshooter11000
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Apparently you need to have the exact right size of o ring for it to act like a check valve. If its too small it will only start to act like a check valve part of the way through the stroke. I was reading that on another forum, somebody said that it happened to them with an o ring that was too small.
Would it not work if you had the piston (with an o ring to always be sealing) pushing the air through one check valve on the bottom (flow direction out of the pump) out to the cannon and when you pull the pump handle back up then it sucks air in from another check valve also at the bottom (flow direction into the pump)? It would be a whole lot easier to make.
Would it not work if you had the piston (with an o ring to always be sealing) pushing the air through one check valve on the bottom (flow direction out of the pump) out to the cannon and when you pull the pump handle back up then it sucks air in from another check valve also at the bottom (flow direction into the pump)? It would be a whole lot easier to make.
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warhead052
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I kinda need it by next Wednesday Jrrdw. I dunno. I will see if I can use my friends lathe, but its his dad's and he may not let me.