Im having trouble refurbishing this engine I was given by a neighbour. Ive removed the crankshaft and all the plastic so I just have an engine. Unfortunately to get it all off I had to unscrew all the pull start which is annoying. I don't think I can get it to work on the shaft as it needs to stay still after the engine has started which requires the plastic cover. I think il start it with a drill motor or something. Anyway Im not sure what these little flaps are which sit on the moving rotor. Are they needed?
thanks.
Grass trimmer (weed wacker) engine
- Gippeto
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Pictures...or you get "the treatment".
Double dose if you post "fuzzy" pictures.
Make and model number would aid in obtaining a parts breakdown as well.

Double dose if you post "fuzzy" pictures.

Make and model number would aid in obtaining a parts breakdown as well.
"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
- Mr.Tallahassee
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Those "flaps" are the teeth that hook into the pull-start until the engine starts and the rpm spins them outwards to detach the starter. If those are stuck in place then the starter will not disengage.
- Gippeto
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Those look to be parts of the directional clutch mechanism for the starter...shouldn't be needed if you're not using the starter...and best removed before they become projectiles when the engine starts.
Wickes is a hardware store in the UK?? Seems they re-badge items made elsewhere.
Might be a sticker or tag on the engine/bodywork stating who actually made the trimmer for them.
Edit: Verdammt! Beaten by a minute.
Wickes is a hardware store in the UK?? Seems they re-badge items made elsewhere.
Might be a sticker or tag on the engine/bodywork stating who actually made the trimmer for them.
Edit: Verdammt! Beaten by a minute.

"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Well I would like a pull start but I cant get that bloody coil spring back in the mechanism, so looks like il be ditching it. The engine is fairly easily to turn for 2/3 revolution but that 1/3 it is rather resistant, any thoughts?
Make certain you remove the weights from the centrifugal clutch as well. Those make VERY nice projectiles. Don't ask how I know that.Gippeto wrote:Those look to be parts of the directional clutch mechanism for the starter...shouldn't be needed if you're not using the starter...and best removed before they become projectiles when the engine starts.
Wickes is a hardware store in the UK?? Seems they re-badge items made elsewhere.
Might be a sticker or tag on the engine/bodywork stating who actually made the trimmer for them.
Edit: Verdammt! Beaten by a minute.
POLAND_SPUD wrote:even if there was no link I'd know it's a bot because of female name
- Mr.Tallahassee
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They(pull start engagement teeth) rarely become projectiles unless you were to cut away all the metal holding them in place or it rusted away. I have spun cheaper ones to some crazy high RPMs. That flywheel and all the parts on it should take at least 9,000 RPM.
EDIT: I have had the clutch "pads" in a clutched weed trimmer throw themselves through the wall of my shed, which is 1/2'' plywood, from 20 feet.
EDIT: I have had the clutch "pads" in a clutched weed trimmer throw themselves through the wall of my shed, which is 1/2'' plywood, from 20 feet.
- Technician1002
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The resistance is simply the compression stroke of the engine. You will find that will go away if the spark plug is removed. This is normal and the engine will not run without the compression.Alster370 wrote:Well I would like a pull start but I cant get that bloody coil spring back in the mechanism, so looks like il be ditching it. The engine is fairly easily to turn for 2/3 revolution but that 1/3 it is rather resistant, any thoughts?