Hotwired wrote:What is the hinge meant to attach to and what is being hinged?
Well, long story short, I'm on a bit of a "weird modelling" roll at the moment, building 54mm scale versions of Warhammer 40,000 vehicles.
For example - on the left, my WIP 54mm Rhino (with 54mm model for scale). On the right, the 28mm version:
<img src="
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy3/ ... MG1170.jpg">
So when I went completely mad, I decided to make a 54mm scale Warhound Titan (Here you have
the 28mm version) - and I'd like the entire thing to be articulated, so that it can be reposed for various reasons (Standing, in motion, half destroyed, etc).
These are going to be the 14 toe joints. They're thus going to be helping support the entire thing really - most of the construction of the upper body is plasticard (polystyrene sheet, if that means nothing to you), PVC sheet, PVC pipe and Milliput - not hugely heavy stuff, but it adds up and there's as much lead, steel and copper in the feet and lower legs as I can manage, to try and keep it bottom heavy.
As far as how the joints will be used, the two outer rings will be connecting to the mid joint of the toe (probably by epoxy), the inner section will be connected to either the end section of the toe or the main foot, depending on which exact joint it is.
I had originally planned on drilling through into the inner pieces, then screwing through into the dowel to fix them more securely (As it'll have a small footprint I'm worried about the possibility of it twisting off its mounting if it's simply glued.)
jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:12mm dowel wrapped with masking tape and hammered in?
12mm dowel split in two, then hammer a sliver of wood as a wedge in between them?
I've considered the first one already, but I think the tape will just peel off. Best option I can think of on that front is trimming paper and then using wood glue to fix it in place as a wrapping,
The second one has also considered at bit already, and is probably the best option I can think of at the moment, as in theory, I can still screw through into the dowel. It's probably what I'll go with if nothing better comes up (perhaps modified as below), but it's not completely perfect.
One idea that has just come to mind would be splitting it and introducing a layer of plasticard into the gap to thicken it up slightly.
Technician1002 wrote:Ball peen hammer and put a custom hammer finish on the outer surface will create friction dimples. Adjust quantity and depth to suit.
Could work, although I'm worried that relying on a rough surface will wear down over time, and it's going to be a pig if it ever needs fixing.
Does anyone know of a form of friction paste/grease that will work on copper/copper surfaces?