pneumatic sniper

Show us your pneumatic spud gun! Discuss pneumatic (compressed gas) powered potato guns and related accessories. Valve types, actuation, pipe, materials, fittings, compressors, safety, gas choices, and more.
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Gippeto
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Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:58 pm

What kind of tube (pipe) are you using? If that is aluminum or galvanized steel, you will not be able to solder it.

Solder will not bond to aluminum. You may still be able to use epoxy of some sort.

Non-galvanized steel can be soldered.

Heating galvanized steel to soldering temperature could cause the zinc coating to burn, which gives off toxic gases.
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ghostman01
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:58 am

i think the main reason most people diagree with using the stock as a chamber is because with all the corners it takes more time for the air to go around corners than an inline. well thats my thought
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psycix
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:13 am

@ajdevi92

I think that is not really something to worry about, depending on your stock design.
The back half of volume of the stock only needs to pass trhough half the air thus at half the speed as at the forward-end (near the valve)
A corner before your valve defenitely wastes flow efficiency a bit but the corners at the back are nothing to worry about.
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ghostman01
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:20 am

ok yeah i guess never really thought about it deeply realy
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sniper hero
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:54 am

I don't know what kind of pipe it is but he said it could be slodered.
only the barrel is aluminium but that is not doeing to be soldered but with special metal epoxy.
the piston comes in the T piece that now makes a kind of Y so before the valve is only an angle of 45 degree
and I can't get metal pipe with fittings in a big diametre :(
and for making the piston, will olive oil work to prevent the epoxy from sticking in the pipe?
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sniper hero
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Thu Mar 20, 2008 11:58 am

I still have a problem making the piston
here are some pics of were it should come
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psycix
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Fri Mar 21, 2008 2:29 pm

Your tee and piston should be larger than the porting of the valve.
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sniper hero
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Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:58 am

yes that's the best but it's possible like this too
I need to have an easy piston that work good for long time

and my little brother ruined my pipes :evil: so now I have copper pipe :P
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bluerussetboy
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Sat Mar 22, 2008 8:42 am

So where is your piston valve going in this? And is it a barrel sealer or chamber sealer?
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psycix
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Sat Mar 22, 2008 12:09 pm

Its a barrel sealing piston valve inside that tee, but that tee should be larger in my opinion to create the frontal surface on the piston where the initial force of getting it moving backwards is applied.
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bluerussetboy
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Sat Mar 22, 2008 12:53 pm

psycix wrote:Its a barrel sealing piston valve inside that tee, but that tee should be larger in my opinion to create the frontal surface on the piston where the initial force of getting it moving backwards is applied.
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If it is in this location, it sort of has to be a chamber sealer. How is it going to seal the barrel? With it being a chamber sealer it needs o-rings and the force from the chamber will actuate it. If the OP thinks he is making a barrel sealer there, then he needs to do more piston research. This explains it.
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sniper hero
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Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:55 am

I know how a piston works but I think im gonna make a piston like that one from brian the brain (how-to "100% seal no O rings!")
then it doesn't need to be bigger and will seal quite well I think.
and yes the piston comes in the part bluerussetboy circled
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psycix
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Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:27 pm

I still think you will need a bigger tee.

But ill hear it if youve got it working with a different design.
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Sun Mar 23, 2008 5:47 pm

ok I will tell you :)
I hope I will get some parts tuesday so it might be finished wednesday
and then it's shooting time :D I hope XD

and do you guys think I need to buy a 28mm to 22mm adapter and then put the barrel into the 22mm. that fits I think. or just use my epoxy

and I did the soldering :P
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psycix
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Mon Mar 24, 2008 6:26 am

Using the 28 -> 22 mm adapter would seem the most reliable solution to me.
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