SpudFiles

i got to lowes on sunday and i was ticked because the tees are stupid and dont allow a pipe to go all the way through. so now i may need some macined parts is anyone willing to make some special tees for me for under 20 bucks if so please post.also i am thinking i may also need some other parts for loading and such.another thing is if the barrel is 1/2 inch copper would a dart that is in a coupler for the 1/2 fit in the barrel tightly and sill work correctly(fly straight) because if so i am thinking of doing somthing like rifling just the muzzle like in a smooth twist barrel,(look up verminator in youtube and you should find it *cation contains hunting*) but the dart will expand to fit the grooves because it was deformed in entering the barrel so the tape will want to expand (post about my darts are in magor collins mk1 and mk2 post). also this is my post so as long as i am still active you can always post in my topics if they die out.

Buy a drill bit and ream out the tee If you really want. It be cheaper then buying a part from a guy.


Nick

I always agree when someone suggests buying tools.

Would suggest a dremel kit though. Spend a bit more on a decent one (preferably with variable speed)...you'll never be sorry you buy a good tool...you WILL be sorry if you buy a cheap one expecting it to last.

HSS (or better yet carbide) burrs (cutting bits for the dremel) will make short work of a plastic tee...use some water in a squirt bottle to keep the plastic from melting onto the burr and plugging. Use only enough water to accomplish the task and keep it OUT of the tool.

Sanding drums work very well on copper tees.

What is a sanding drum and also I would be a little concerned with that cuz I want 100+ psi per shot.also I would like to see my favorite Canadian machinist's work . Also I am ditching the built in silencer idea for a muzzle rifling idea but I will put on a threaded piece for adding a silencer or a flash hider. Also I would not use PVC except for the scope, outer barrel, and cheek rest. Also would there be a noticeable kick from firing a tight dart, marble, wax slug or paintballs that it would have more kick than a .22 rifle?

dart guy wrote:What is a sanding drum




and also I would be a little concerned with that cuz I want 100+ psi per shot.

??? Sanding the fitting out so that the pipe can go past the restriction will not cause you any grief at 100psi. Connection still has to be sweated (soldered).

Also would there be a noticeable kick from firing a tight dart, marble, wax slug or paintballs that it would have more kick than a .22 rifle?

Not enough recoil to be concerned with.

the joint isnt going to be sweated because it will be a free sliding component though it will need some orings. also i thought a sanding drum was different than that sorry about that

i was ticked because the tees are stupid and dont allow a pipe to go all the way through

This is how all tees are; they allow for the proper length of pipe to be inserted.

Another option is to buy a larger sized tee and use some sort of bushing or pipe as an insert to bring the connections down to the proper size.

You said this would be used for a sliding application with O-rings, so this might be a better way to go.

I thought about that but I have only been able to find caps or rediculous looking reducers I'm thinking of trying something like how I had it but I need to do some redrawing, and don't ya know spudfiles isn't school appropriate

Sure it is, my world history notebook from 2 years back is covered with air gun diagrams in the margins

my world history notebook from 2 years back is covered with air gun diagrams in the margins

Why not buy a proper notebook? I used to finish a entire new notebook every school year with drawings

i got my special notebook for that, but the computers lock you out of it because they are"dangerous" just like a peice of grass. (and i mean dangerous without common sense)

wyz2285 wrote:

my world history notebook from 2 years back is covered with air gun diagrams in the margins

Why not buy a proper notebook? I used to finish a entire new notebook every school year with drawings

The margins are just a place to brainstorm, from there the drawings go straight to CAD

Besides, I never read the notes again anyways, so who cares if they're covered with schematics

Sadly I don't think that they would let me use something like solidworks for airguns ( I once got suspended for sticking some taper together into an L shape and saying "bang bang")

Bump.... Sorry again, still have this wonderful problem with chamber to barrel ratio, would like some mor help, I have a friend who will help me by machining parts, of course now I'm thinking of making it a 22 caliber pcp air rifle, sadly I don't think there is a way to make it a dart gun anymore, also I am trashing the silent barrel idea so that I can have a quick screw on barrel.

Here is a little .50 caliber coaxial with integrated suppressor and the under-mount pump easily reaches 100 p.s.i. - So don't give up !