SpudFiles

The troubleshooting guide said:

P: Your sprinkler valve has a guide rod and you don't know where to mod it from.
A: You can usually put the brass fitting into the valve next to the guide rod. A few members have modified the valve where the guide rod is, and have bent the guide rod so the diaphragm doesn't fly off.

What exactly did it mean by bending the guide rod?

I have used valves with guide rods and never bent them. If you don't have to, don't.

As far as its meaning, I would think its talking about bending it in the form of an "L" to keep the 'phragm in place when it moves.

You dont have to bend anything. just drill and tap in a place that doesnt interfere with the guide rod. Good luck

I'm not completely sure I can tap it somewhere that doesn't interfere with the guide rod though. The valve is kind of small.

Got a picture of the valve? We can help you find a place

This tip may or may not help but here's what I usually do:

Remove the cap (for obvious reasons) and drill through the underside. This way, you know where your bit is at at all times. It doesn't have to be perfectly straight, just as long as it's a hole.

Theres a picture of the valve.

Edit: Could I fill up one of the holes where the solenoid used to be widen the other one, and just put the hose barb there?

My valve is slightly different, but im sure you can do the same to your valve as I did to mine....
1. bend guide rod so it looks like an L.
2. insert guide rod into phragm.
3. bend other side like you did to the previous side.
4. tap hole in the center of the valve for you hose barb...

Ah thanks, I'll try that.

Pyro Ninja wrote:My valve is slightly different, but im sure you can do the same to your valve as I did to mine....
1. bend guide rod so it looks like an L.
2. insert guide rod into phragm.
3. bend other side like you did to the previous side.
4. tap hole in the center of the valve for you hose barb...

i wish i thought of that lol. when i modified my guide rod sprinkler valve i had to wait 2 days for epoxy to dry than when it did dry it didn't work out, than when i did it agin and it did work i burnt my hand not once but twice on a red hot needle. this would have saved me a lot of trouble i'll probely use it next time i mod a valve.

What Pyro Ninja did is what I was talking about. I'll probably link to that picture or be more specific or something.

Oh, one more question, the FAQ said:

P: Your valve won't seal while you're pressurizing the cannon.
A: You may have an equilization hole that is too small. You may also have a leak in the top of the valve, so the valve is constantly being piloted. You can expand the equilization hole with a needle or a tiny drill bit. If there is a leak in the top of the valve, use sealant or epoxy to seal it. You may need to create a vacuum in the cannon to suck in the sealant. Your valve may also be on backwards. Check that the arrows point towards the barrel. Also, the manual bleed switch on the solenoigh may be up or partway up, keeping the valve from sealing.

On my valve, the equalization hole has metal around it. Is there any way to fix it, or am I just going to have to live with the leaking?

i would say remove the metal if you can but if not, nothing says you cant have 2 equalization holes so you can always make another smaller one

Where is it leaking from? The only time you need a bigger equilization hole is if the valve DOES NOT SEAL at all.

It only leaks when I hook it up to the air compressor.