SpudFiles

I has always wanted build nice rifle looking spud/marblegun and when my chinese hipower spring air rifle (IB AR1000 Magnum) piston cracked i had an idea

Many plans later it turns out like that:

http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... iirros.png

That way i can use original trigger mechanism (which is damn good) and loading is simple musket style. Loads trigger and ammo at same time. Well on video it doesn't work that way. Little valve rod adjustment needed. And on picture there is useless loading rod.

http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-001.jpg
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-003.jpg
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-004.jpg
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-005.jpg



With scope
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-008.jpg

Videos:
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/videos/AR1000_mod_BB-001.wmv
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/videos/AR1000_mod_BB-002.wmv
Tested at 8 - 9bar

I am very happy with that. It has even little bit recoil Some tuning and maybe some patina on copper or something like that is on the list.

Update: Rifle ready (maybe)

Very nice! A lovely build! But i'm still abit unsure about the valve is it just a single shot hammer valve?

Thanks!

No it's not hammer valve in fact i don't know what type is it
For different sizes of front and rear holes/seal faces pressure draws valve forward and trigger sear holds valve in place until trigger is pressed. Like it was hold piston in original gun. It cocks when piston (now metal plate) pressed enough backwards.

The valve is a sort of blowgun, but kept in place by the trigger and pushed by air pressure.

Do you have a lathe?

good work dude this idea of quake air dump is amazing
no waste of air to shoot like the piston valve
but i think piston valve is faster

your method work like this

how is the accuracy ??






air pressure in the champer
you push the trigger 1
this nut 2 go down
the piston and the rod moving to left ( 3 )
air come out and kick the bastard marble

more pressure faster open time higher speeds
but you must make stopping mechanism more powerful to handle the hit of that heavy rod (in case you use higher pressure 500 psi and so)

I like it...
it looks great and it's a very clever and original design

EDIT
where did you get that brass fitting in picture 'AR1000_bigbore-003'? did you remove it from an old water tap/valve ?

wow, you've already got snow in finland...? damn, here it's almost 10 C everyday

I've seen that you have a 12V tire compressor... you might want to build one ofthese
it's as simple as it looks - all you need is a working fridge compressor

you could reach 500 psi with it (though it would be a good idea to make sure that the gun can handle such high pressures)

Thanks to you all.. I like it too.

Demon: No only Cordless drill, small drill press and dremel = "drill spins and dremel cuts" type of lathe That rear plate was pain to make from 5 mm iron flat.

far_cry: Yes piston valve can be made much lighter and can be faster. Well this has enough speed to me. Even without projectile it has loud bang. Your description of my gun working principle is just right.. some accuracy tests may have be coming some day. Now it's just too fun and thinking shot charge.

That 28 mm pipe can handle 51 bar (740 psi) and seams are hard soldered. But i think i stay in 10 bar or a maximum what fridge compressor can produce.

POLAND_SPUD: I don't know where that brass fitting was belong.. i had it several years, originally found it in my dad's garage. I think is inch to metric adapter or compression connection to 10mm pipe. Pipe was pretty loose fit.

Yes snow \o/ but it comes and goes

Very nice and clean build.

Valve looks good, but that plastic conduit barrel.. try to find some 20mm aluminum pipe for better look and strength

Very, very very nice!!!! Nice valve!!!!

If i may post some constructive criticism, I would replace the barrel, with a longer one, possibly copper too.

excellent idea! thankyou to far_cry for the explanation!

Well plastic barrel works well and fits nicely. Also i like black/copper color scheme. Maybe if i patin copper to black with liver of sulpur or darken just with heat. Then shiny barrel may look good. If not black paint or other finish.

And if i go higher pressures barrel will change.

Nickel plated iron (seam inside), aluminium and plastic barrels.
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-010.jpg

More support for copper parts was needed and today i build some:

http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-009.jpg
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-011.jpg

I tested shot charge with airsoft bullets at 15 meters and have about meter spread.. some barrel choke maybe but how? or other ideas to get smaller spread..

Must buy paint balls maybe fits nicely in barrel.

More testing...

http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... r_shot.jpg
Better than plain wads.. about 60 cm pattern @ 15 meters

http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee/shot_charge.jpg
Best so far 40 - 50 cm pattern with tight center group @ 15 meters

Aluminium cans have no chance!

wads are cut from camping mat.

And must remember take ear plugs next time... this thing is loud with shot charges @ 10,5 bar

I've been considering buying one of those cheap Chinese airguns just to use it's stock... but now that I've seen how you modded it into a quite powerful airgun i think I'd rather test you idea first

DO you plan to improve the design or the main valve ??
what is its porting (diam. of the port through which air enters the barrel) ?
do you think you could improve the opening time by reducing weight of the valve?

Would be cool to see another same type build

Port diameter is about 13.5 mm. Maybe i can but is fast enough even now (i think ) One extend nut can be changed easily to normal short one. Removes couple grams And some holes in back plate removes little too. Grinding rod thinner from inside a chamber is also one method. Maybe i do some of these.

Main thing now is test projectiles because gun works great. Some hided quick connect fitting in gun to remove that hose would be nice. More portable thing then. Well by one shot but still. I found some open rear sight what connects 11 mm rails. Some front sight must be invented Open sights fits better to gun style than scope..

One more pic from today:
http://tekniikka.pommi.fi/kuvat/Kaikkee ... re-012.jpg

Great thinking out of the box and fantastically executed

I think however you're losing a lot of power potential with what is not the most efficient valve design. With a coaxial design you could practically double the barrel length while keeping the same overally length, and if you use the trigger mechanism to retain the piston in this way it can be made much shorter and lighter and there will be no flow restriction at the barrel.