Pump Shaft Usable?
- Mpeddlesden
- Private 2
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:04 am
Ive decided a low pressure co-axil would not be satisfying enough for me so i need to build a pump (I would find a fridge compressor but there like gold here) i was going to build a pump like Gippeto's ''stirrup pump''. but than changed to more of a design of far_cry's shock pump.
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/my-seco ... 18650.html
QUESTION.
I have decided to use 3/4 Galvanized pipe (Cheap, sting, manageable)
BUT there is a welded notch that run's along the inside length of the pipe would this be a problem.?
Has any one used Galvanized pipe for a pumps main body
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/my-seco ... 18650.html
QUESTION.
I have decided to use 3/4 Galvanized pipe (Cheap, sting, manageable)
BUT there is a welded notch that run's along the inside length of the pipe would this be a problem.?
Has any one used Galvanized pipe for a pumps main body
- Attachments
-
- 130100PCLG.jpg (7.75 KiB) Viewed 2513 times
- Technician1002
- Captain
- Posts: 5189
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:10 am
The ridge is most definitely a problem. I had to deal with it in my QDV valve builds.
With sandpaper glued to a dowel and a drill, the ridge can be sanded out. Here is what a galvanized pipe looks like in my Marshmallow cannon after polishing to remove the ridge.
Here is another build with extensive sanding to deal with the ridge and rust. You can see remains of the ridge. Original piece of the pipe is on the left for comparison.
Edit, I remembered I have a video online regarding preparing a pipe for use with a psiton and o rings. I hope this helps.
[youtube][/youtube]
With sandpaper glued to a dowel and a drill, the ridge can be sanded out. Here is what a galvanized pipe looks like in my Marshmallow cannon after polishing to remove the ridge.
Here is another build with extensive sanding to deal with the ridge and rust. You can see remains of the ridge. Original piece of the pipe is on the left for comparison.
Edit, I remembered I have a video online regarding preparing a pipe for use with a psiton and o rings. I hope this helps.
[youtube][/youtube]
I had my dad drill out a 3/4" pipe with a 27/32" drill bit at work. That worked fairly well, but I sanded the inside afterword. It was a short length, so I simply chucked a Mandrel in a drill, wrapped it in sand paper (80 grit, we don't have anything finer), held the pipe in a vice, and...
For a pump type length, it would be harder, especially for a small diameter. Even with a lathe, boring bars can only be only so long before they flex.
After you get it close to smooth, you could try a brake cylinder hone from harbor freight in a drill on an extension rod.
For a pump type length, it would be harder, especially for a small diameter. Even with a lathe, boring bars can only be only so long before they flex.
After you get it close to smooth, you could try a brake cylinder hone from harbor freight in a drill on an extension rod.
POLAND_SPUD wrote:even if there was no link I'd know it's a bot because of female name
- Gippeto
- First Sergeant 3
- Posts: 2503
- Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:14 am
- Location: Soon to be socialist shit hole.
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 17 times
See if you can get seamless steel tubing...no welding ridge.
Try an online supplier if you can't get it locally from your welding shop.
Online metals, Metal supermarket, etc. will have it.
More money...yes, but also a LOT less work.
Try an online supplier if you can't get it locally from your welding shop.
Online metals, Metal supermarket, etc. will have it.
More money...yes, but also a LOT less work.
"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
- Technician1002
- Captain
- Posts: 5189
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:10 am
Brake cylinder hones are made for glaze breaking. They are very slow in cutting metal. Sandpaper is much faster cutting. A hone is OK for finishing touches, but not for ridge cutting. You will want a course fast cutting grit to get the job done quickly then finished up with a fine grit for the polish. My rusty barrel was done with 80, 120, & 150 grit. 300 & 600 grit is not needed unless you are looking for a mirror finish. Most of the heavy cutting is done with large grit.
- clemsonguy1125
- Sergeant 5
- Posts: 1485
- Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2009 4:00 pm
- Location: East Coast
how long is your pumps shaft, at my hardware store the short 12 inch pieces and shorter have the ridge, the 18 inch and up dont
That is all.
- Technician1002
- Captain
- Posts: 5189
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:10 am
I built valves using o rings, not pumps. 18 inch is a good length for a pump.
- Gun Freak
- Lieutenant 5
- Posts: 4971
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:38 pm
- Location: Florida
- Been thanked: 7 times
Tech I think clemsonguy1125 was talking to Mpeddlesden, not you . Anyway, 18 inches is a little short for a good pump don't you think? I am planning a small hand pump that gets higher pressures than a normal handpump, somewhere in the 100-150 psi range, like a shock pump with bigger volume, that will probably have a galvanized steel nipple for a main body...
OG Anti-Hybrid
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
Personally I'd go with Gippeto's suggestion and get seamless stainless steel from a supplier, that's what I'm using for the pump cylinder on my pump- it is half the diameter though- And the finish on it is incredible. Just place the order and it ships... no work with homemade sanding wheels or the like.
- Mpeddlesden
- Private 2
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:04 am
I own and use a brake cylinder hone Ive used on my steel coaxial for the pistons stoke, the only thing that would be the best and easiest is "Technician1002"s technique.
- Mpeddlesden
- Private 2
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:04 am
- Crna Legija
- First Sergeant 2
- Posts: 2333
- Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:14 am
- Location: australia
i think it would be essayer to just get some copper pipe its smooth already
or alu and use compression fittings
or alu and use compression fittings
'' To alcohol... The cause of, and solution to, all of life's problems.”
--Homer Simpson
Add me on ps3: wannafuk, 8/11/11 cant wait
--Homer Simpson
Add me on ps3: wannafuk, 8/11/11 cant wait
- Gun Freak
- Lieutenant 5
- Posts: 4971
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:38 pm
- Location: Florida
- Been thanked: 7 times
Or do as deathbyDWV suggested to me, use a brass nipple... they're smooth on the inside and threaded....
OG Anti-Hybrid
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
- Technician1002
- Captain
- Posts: 5189
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:10 am
I don't recommend copper pipe. It is too easily damaged, ether bent, dented, or fatigued. They don't like lots of mechanical stresses in the pump application. Use a stronger harder material.