SpudFiles

...I believe I already posted my designs of the valve and said there was a semi-working prototype...like I said, it works, but since I made mine out of glue and wood, it couldn't really hold pressure...

is there any chance of you posting pictures and or a better diagram of what you are planing on building?

Heres a better one that I drew, best to my ability

oh yes i saw that one but i ment do you have a better one for the whole gun

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:

Gun Freak wrote:just one thing that's been getting on my nerves

Just one

I never said that Looks like you quoted the wrong person, sir

Im just 14. Almost 15

I'm ordering the parts hopefully, withing the week, screw the prototype, I'll show you the final.

what parts are you geting?

89965K67
Aluminum Tubing 1" OD, .93" ID, .035" Wall Thickness, 6' Length

Air tank, with like end caps and a Schrader

4279T123
Basic Aluminum (Alloy 3003/3105) .040" Thk, 12" X24", Painted, One Side Black One White

Frame and other parts will be made of this

89965K223
Aluminum Tubing 3/8" OD, .277" ID, .049" Wall Thickness, 3' Length

Barrel, if any of you guys can find the 90 degree elbow joints for this, I'll appreciate that a lot


From McMaster

@Technician:
I would be glad If it would do that a bit more, because I can't see that effect yet, but maybe it will show up at higher pressures, like POLAND_SPUD mentioned ->check this thread for more.


@nadjatee1996:
I don't know whether you already know, or even intending to build it that way, but your valve has the ability to be the valve AND the loading mech in one unit, because of the fact that you push it forward to open it.
You could either replace the entire rod or just the tip of it with a tube, and drill some holes into that tube and you have your loading mechanism.
Understand?

Ah wait.. I will show yow what I mean...

(I also added a smaller chamber and a pinhole, because otherwise you will exhaust the whole chamber)

the commercial drozd-auto-airgun uses a similar mechanism:

Dude, no offense, but if you read any of my earlier posts, you would've known I was doing that already, your design is pretty much the same as mine. Also, if you add a pre-shot chamber, wouldn't it be like charging the gun, I want all my shots to have the same amount of power

I read all of your posts in this topic, so I must have missed it.
Would you mind telling me where you pointed that out?
Or is that meant to be gathered from one of your diagrams?

And you will only get (more or less) the same amount of power for every shot, when you incorporate some sort of hammer into the actuation of the valve. Or use a regulator.

Uh...I'll be connecting the barrel to the valve, so the barrel and valve is one whole thing, so when I pull the trigger it'll literally bring the whole barrel and valve BACK, along with the air tank, what the hell is a regulator? And why a hammer? Check my previous diagram again

Go back a page or two, you'll see P_S criticizing my choice of a moving barrel.

A regulator regulates the pressure in the first chamber down to a lower pressure in a second chamber, that is not anymore affected by variations of the pressure in the first chamber, as long as the first pressure is higher or equal to the desired pressure in the second chamber. It does that by closing the connection when the desired pressure is reached and opens it again when the pressure in the second chamber drops again.

So you intend to use the design I posted, but move the barrel instead of the valve? Yeah, would work, but it will probably be fiddly to seal the vavle stem to the housing of the valve. Good luck with building this valve, I'm curious how that all will turn out.

You got a seller for a regulator?Also, note that I'm building a pistol here

hammer valves by design are self regulating, when you are hitting it with a non-changing force, but a varying air pressure; the opening time compensates for lower pressures. you are practically releasing the same amount of air every shot