6mm piston valve air gun
Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:33 am
I have been around here for awhile now so its about time I posted something that isn't off topic..
This is my first attempt at making an air gun, many years ago I made a fairly large spray and pray cannon out of DWV. It was pretty powerful and fun, but its unpredictability and concerns for my well being were what made me decide to go with compressed air, at least for now...
The overall goal was for it to be 'semi' semi automatic, aka didn't need to be refilled between every shot but loading was still done manually. This was going to be achieved with a sprung piston, controlling airflow exiting pilot valve and minimizing airflow from a reservoir to the guns chamber. So the piston would close before pressure could build enough to keep it forced open. Perhaps a cross section could help explain this: I choose 6mm for two main reasons:
- I had a broken arrow lying around which is the perfect diameter for 6mm bb pellets
- I didn't have money for anything larger
So as to serve as a trial run before building larger and more possibly more complex creations when funding allows, I made this.
The design was inspired by one of wyz2285s guns, found here
Where I live, galvanized fittings are cheaper than PVC (plus as far as I am concerned metal is better than plastic,) so that is why metal was used for a low cost build. Other cost saving measures involve using cheese wax or electrical tape for sealing the threads (I find cheese wax works very well).
The piston is a small section of television antenna or similar aluminium tube with epoxy filling about 1/3 of it. Initially a piece of gumboot was used for the sealing face, but this wore out after awhile. I am currently using some tyre inner tube, which is holding out very well.
The piston (shown below) is lightly sprung which stops leaks forming when initially filling the chamber with air (it still leaks below 20 psi). The piston slides inside the casing of an old AA battery, this along with some electrical tape and oil makes for a near air tight seal.
The screw was an experiment to stop unnecessary air passing the piston rather than exiting the barrel, when piston is fully depressed the intent was for the screws body to fill the main exit hole in the back of the battery. It doesn't work well.The AA battery has a strip of paper and more electrical tape wrapped around it so it forms a tight fit into the galv fitting. This also helps decrease pilot volume. One downside of the design is that barrels cant be interchanged, easily. The arrow is epoxied into the reducer fitting which also holds it at the right length to interface with the piston. At one point I sleeved the barrel with a smaller diameter aluminium tube, perfect for .177 pellets or 4.5mm bbs. I found that this had a large effect on projectile speed and as such have reverted back just the arrow.
Similarly I also have a larger aluminum tube, initially to protect the carbon arrow. As it is overly long, it has a silencing effect when firing. Again I prefer not to use it as the added length makes it too unwieldy and I cant be bothered to cut it down.
The stock is made from 30mm diameter steel tubing. On my quest to save money and not having anything like JB weld on hand, I let a friend who had just got a welder have some practice at welding thin metal. It doesn't bother me, its better than what I could do for the price.
Holes were then cut and filed until the gun was able to slot in place, its an interference fit with the galvanized elbow, and a 'securing' screw holds the hook on the blowgun firm. Its a surprisingly secure fit, yet removal is simple.The finish on the stock was achieved by scrubbing it with scouring pad and then clear coating it. Its a nice finish that photos don't do justice.
Filling is done with a fridge compressor, it was the cheapest option for me, just had to jump into a few skips to salvage some stuff Now the interesting part.
Throughout the build and tuning process many items have been fired and with different methods. The most effective I have found to date is a 4.5mm steel bb with a 6mm lightweight bb as a sabot. This has been measured at 700fps when charged with 130psi, I feel sometimes it fires faster than this however.
The lightweight bb by itself has been recorded at just over 1000 fps with maybe 150psi (it was past the end of the pressure gauge).To stop the bb rolling out of the barrel, there is a broken piece of hard drive magnet stuck to the inside of the chamber.
Other random damage pictures: Damage tends to just be holes in stuff, which isn't too exciting..
This is my first attempt at making an air gun, many years ago I made a fairly large spray and pray cannon out of DWV. It was pretty powerful and fun, but its unpredictability and concerns for my well being were what made me decide to go with compressed air, at least for now...
The overall goal was for it to be 'semi' semi automatic, aka didn't need to be refilled between every shot but loading was still done manually. This was going to be achieved with a sprung piston, controlling airflow exiting pilot valve and minimizing airflow from a reservoir to the guns chamber. So the piston would close before pressure could build enough to keep it forced open. Perhaps a cross section could help explain this: I choose 6mm for two main reasons:
- I had a broken arrow lying around which is the perfect diameter for 6mm bb pellets
- I didn't have money for anything larger
So as to serve as a trial run before building larger and more possibly more complex creations when funding allows, I made this.
The design was inspired by one of wyz2285s guns, found here
Where I live, galvanized fittings are cheaper than PVC (plus as far as I am concerned metal is better than plastic,) so that is why metal was used for a low cost build. Other cost saving measures involve using cheese wax or electrical tape for sealing the threads (I find cheese wax works very well).
The piston is a small section of television antenna or similar aluminium tube with epoxy filling about 1/3 of it. Initially a piece of gumboot was used for the sealing face, but this wore out after awhile. I am currently using some tyre inner tube, which is holding out very well.
The piston (shown below) is lightly sprung which stops leaks forming when initially filling the chamber with air (it still leaks below 20 psi). The piston slides inside the casing of an old AA battery, this along with some electrical tape and oil makes for a near air tight seal.
The screw was an experiment to stop unnecessary air passing the piston rather than exiting the barrel, when piston is fully depressed the intent was for the screws body to fill the main exit hole in the back of the battery. It doesn't work well.The AA battery has a strip of paper and more electrical tape wrapped around it so it forms a tight fit into the galv fitting. This also helps decrease pilot volume. One downside of the design is that barrels cant be interchanged, easily. The arrow is epoxied into the reducer fitting which also holds it at the right length to interface with the piston. At one point I sleeved the barrel with a smaller diameter aluminium tube, perfect for .177 pellets or 4.5mm bbs. I found that this had a large effect on projectile speed and as such have reverted back just the arrow.
Similarly I also have a larger aluminum tube, initially to protect the carbon arrow. As it is overly long, it has a silencing effect when firing. Again I prefer not to use it as the added length makes it too unwieldy and I cant be bothered to cut it down.
The stock is made from 30mm diameter steel tubing. On my quest to save money and not having anything like JB weld on hand, I let a friend who had just got a welder have some practice at welding thin metal. It doesn't bother me, its better than what I could do for the price.
Holes were then cut and filed until the gun was able to slot in place, its an interference fit with the galvanized elbow, and a 'securing' screw holds the hook on the blowgun firm. Its a surprisingly secure fit, yet removal is simple.The finish on the stock was achieved by scrubbing it with scouring pad and then clear coating it. Its a nice finish that photos don't do justice.
Filling is done with a fridge compressor, it was the cheapest option for me, just had to jump into a few skips to salvage some stuff Now the interesting part.
Throughout the build and tuning process many items have been fired and with different methods. The most effective I have found to date is a 4.5mm steel bb with a 6mm lightweight bb as a sabot. This has been measured at 700fps when charged with 130psi, I feel sometimes it fires faster than this however.
The lightweight bb by itself has been recorded at just over 1000 fps with maybe 150psi (it was past the end of the pressure gauge).To stop the bb rolling out of the barrel, there is a broken piece of hard drive magnet stuck to the inside of the chamber.
Other random damage pictures: Damage tends to just be holes in stuff, which isn't too exciting..