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How big would I need for a 2" porting piston
Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 3:43 pm
by MisterSteve124
How big of a tee would I need to make a 2" porting piston?
Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:53 pm
by Velocity
at least 2.5 (mauler valve), prolly 3" would be easier (supah)
Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:15 pm
by MisterSteve124
ok does a 2" cap fit good in a 2.5" tee for a piston?
Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:56 pm
by jrrdw
I think if you sand it down to fit.
Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:11 pm
by c19o
Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:13 pm
by MisterSteve124
So does every other hardware store like everywhere! And nobody is talking about sprinkler valves besides you.
Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:20 pm
by killagorrila99
Try a 1.5 cap. That should do.
Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:33 pm
by c19o
the sprinkler valve is to fire the cannon dumas*.

Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:24 am
by CS
Well I once constructed a 2" ported valve within a 2" tee. The stroke was only ~.5", and the fact that there was was no way to remove the valve once glued in place.
As Rmich stated, it'd be best to in case within a 2.5", or 3" tee. A 2.5" is more then roomy enough to in case everything, although out of availability some may be forced to use a 3" Tee.
In the 2.5" T valves Ive constructed I used a section of 2.5" pipe for the piston chute. A un-modded section of 2.5" will accept a 2" pipe, but with more play then a O-ring can take care of. So I then tried to solvent weld a 2" coupler on a section of 2" pipe, then lathe it down to use that last bit of coupler to make up that difference. The fitting layer is simply to thin, and flakes off during machining. So now use a 3" boring bar to increase the ID of the 2.5" pipe while using a lathed down coupler solvent welded to a 2" pipe as the piston.
The boring of the 2.5" is a rather good procedure as both sch 40, and 80 above 2" tend to have a uneven interior. So using a boring bar with a slow auto feed on the carriage it produces a really nice surface finish. From what I hear Gort uses 2.5" sch 80 to accept 2" sch 40 as the piston. Ive never tried myself, but I would assume one would still have a bit of trouble with the uneven interior of the piston chute.
c19o, please act a bit more mature. There is no need to post 31 emoticons in a row. [Yes, I counted]
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:15 am
by c19o
dude i am just showing how sad i am having to drive 50 miles to get my supplies. and you are not the person to be telling me what to do.
but thanks for the first part of your post.
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:22 am
by CS
"and you are not the person to be telling me what to do." ~c19o
Im in the Modfia...

Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:22 pm
by sgort87
C19o, he IS the person to tell you what to do, and there ISN'T a reason to use 31 emoticons in a row, or even 4 for that matter.
Pimp, you are close on what I use for the piston, but not quite right. And o-rings fix that unevenness with no problems.
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:43 pm
by c19o
dude if he told me what to do on the streets he would be dead in the middle of the road.

and using those emotes doesn't hurt any1? name me a reason why not to. you shouldn't be telling me anything like that either. it isn't like pimp is
my momma or sumthin.
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:54 pm
by CS
Hmmm, the pipe I had was fairly wavy on the interior, although I never tested as to see if such effected the O-ring seal. I bet we were talking ~+/-.005. That obviously throwing any idea you had to your squeeze % out the door. Possibly the interior of the pipe you have is different, or the O-rings do in fact compensate for the ~.01 deviation. Possibly a fairly high viscosity O-ring lube, and low density O-rings would help with such.
A 1.5" fitting instead of a 2" pipe?
Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:56 pm
by c19o
my T is is sch40 and is perfectly smooth on the insides.