Looking into thread cutting and I think Steve Jordan has the right idea:
To that end I made a not-pretty-but-it-works spindle handle with an acetal collet to lock it in place by friction:
JSR's workshop chronicles
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
- mrfoo
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Neat. Yeah, hand-cranking is the safest way to go, but it's properly slow. The next one is to thread away from the chuck, for normal threads that means mounting the tool upside down and running the spindle backwards.
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Good tip, hadn't thought of that! You can still crash into the tailstock but there's definitely more margin for error.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Do you have a threading dial on your carriage? They save an awful lot of pissing about - without one, you need to stop the machine, reverse back to your starting position, feed in a bit, rerun your thread, lather rinse repeat until done, all without disengaging the carriage feed. This puts extra strain and wear on your half-nuts, and the leadscrew.
With a threading dial (for most thread pitches, at least), you can disengage the nuts, feed back manually without even stopping the lathe, wait for the relevant point on the dial to come round, and re-engage. It's approximately a trillion times faster and largely idiot proof, especially if combined with threading away from the headstock.
Making a finish pass away from the headstock when doing "normal" turning can help with surface finish issues as well, you're changing the way the headstock bearings are loaded up, which can help if your bearings are getting a bit tired (like mine, but I can't afford the 800€ to buy new ones) or just not terribly good from the factory (as can be the case with chinese lathes)
When turning away from the headstock, mind, it's a very good idea to have a center in place, as you're pulling the workpiece away from the chuck...
With a threading dial (for most thread pitches, at least), you can disengage the nuts, feed back manually without even stopping the lathe, wait for the relevant point on the dial to come round, and re-engage. It's approximately a trillion times faster and largely idiot proof, especially if combined with threading away from the headstock.
Making a finish pass away from the headstock when doing "normal" turning can help with surface finish issues as well, you're changing the way the headstock bearings are loaded up, which can help if your bearings are getting a bit tired (like mine, but I can't afford the 800€ to buy new ones) or just not terribly good from the factory (as can be the case with chinese lathes)
When turning away from the headstock, mind, it's a very good idea to have a center in place, as you're pulling the workpiece away from the chuck...
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I guess I do!mrfoo wrote: ↑Fri Dec 18, 2020 7:34 amDo you have a threading dial on your carriage? They save an awful lot of pissing about - without one, you need to stop the machine, reverse back to your starting position, feed in a bit, rerun your thread, lather rinse repeat until done, all without disengaging the carriage feed. This puts extra strain and wear on your half-nuts, and the leadscrew.
With a threading dial (for most thread pitches, at least), you can disengage the nuts, feed back manually without even stopping the lathe, wait for the relevant point on the dial to come round, and re-engage. It's approximately a trillion times faster and largely idiot proof, especially if combined with threading away from the headstock.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Actually gave it a go and pretty happy with the result.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Yay! Nice results. Threading is hard to get right.
Is the threaded piece in the foreground 2 pieces stacked on one another, or is it camera distortion that makes it look - ummm - "bent"?
Meanwhile, and polluting your thread a bit (sorry) but it's a workshop thing, my surface plate is getting there. 2 corners are still a bit low, putting me at class 1* overall, but the central par (800x200) is at class 0*. I'm pretty happy with that, it's more than I need.
A not very interesting video I made is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpwiL3BgiIY
* For this size of plate, that means, compared to the theoretical best plane, the total deviation of highest and lowest points must be less than 11.2µ (4.4/10000") for class 1, and 5.6µ (2.2/10000") for class 0.
Is the threaded piece in the foreground 2 pieces stacked on one another, or is it camera distortion that makes it look - ummm - "bent"?
Meanwhile, and polluting your thread a bit (sorry) but it's a workshop thing, my surface plate is getting there. 2 corners are still a bit low, putting me at class 1* overall, but the central par (800x200) is at class 0*. I'm pretty happy with that, it's more than I need.
A not very interesting video I made is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpwiL3BgiIY
* For this size of plate, that means, compared to the theoretical best plane, the total deviation of highest and lowest points must be less than 11.2µ (4.4/10000") for class 1, and 5.6µ (2.2/10000") for class 0.
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That was actually an amusing and informative watch, I can see why you thought my workshop was more organized... obviously you've just been at it longermrfoo wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 2:43 amA not very interesting video I made is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpwiL3BgiIY
J'ai aussi apprécié le contraste avec le bloke anglais pottering about dans son atelier avec la radio francophone
It's one piece, the reflection makes it look weird.Is the threaded piece in the foreground 2 pieces stacked on one another, or is it camera distortion that makes it look - ummm - "bent"?
Here's some more efforts in steel this time, I have to say that after being the bane of my machining existence for many years cutting threads is a real pleasure now!
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Beautiful machined parts, as we would say around here "the child's perfect dream" !!jackssmirkingrevenge wrote: ↑Fri Jan 01, 2021 6:25 amThat was actually an amusing and informative watch, I can see why you thought my workshop was more organized... obviously you've just been at it longermrfoo wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 2:43 amA not very interesting video I made is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpwiL3BgiIY
J'ai aussi apprécié le contraste avec le bloke anglais pottering about dans son atelier avec la radio francophone
It's one piece, the reflection makes it look weird.Is the threaded piece in the foreground 2 pieces stacked on one another, or is it camera distortion that makes it look - ummm - "bent"?
Here's some more efforts in steel this time, I have to say that after being the bane of my machining existence for many years cutting threads is a real pleasure now!
I don't understand anything about machining but what I see is great. May this new year 2021 be very good for you, and for all the colleagues on this site. CONGRATULATIONS!!!
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Nice work Jack.
As far as useful skills go, threading is right up there with grinding tools...opens options and doors to all kinds of new projects!
Al
As far as useful skills go, threading is right up there with grinding tools...opens options and doors to all kinds of new projects!
Al
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Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.