Block Air Through Stock

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TalonXxX
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 4:25 pm

Wanted to make a "sniper" looking pneumatic, but I was just wondering what would be the best way to block air from flowing through the stock. Doing so would probably gain some performance I imagine... I was planning on using some Sch40 T's, but I'm not sure what's the best way to block off one end of the T. Should I just fill it up with glue or bondo or something? cheers

All credit for design goes to arson from air-power.net and his beautiful "Shorty" cannon. I used exact same design but added the 2 T's and a 45° elbow to re-route the airflow.
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The shaded area is the stock and the *s are the parts of the T's I want to fill in with something... any ideas?
The shaded area is the stock and the *s are the parts of the T's I want to fill in with something... any ideas?
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boilingleadbath
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 5:54 pm

Yeah, I'd go with bondo... unless you want to make some custom diameter PVC rod and solvent weld it in there.
As an advantage of the rods, it would be fairly easy to make a cup-shaped depression on the end, to make the turn smoother... it'd reduce turbulence, which is bad.
DriftingRz
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 6:19 pm

im not sure where to get it or what its called but you mix these liquids and they turn into a foam that expands and hardens. you wouldnt need much to fill up the stock.
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TalonXxX
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 8:08 pm

ok, those are some good suggestions... anything anyone else can think of? will that short little stock really even reduce performance that much? Would it even be that dangerous? I might just say fudge it and run air through the stock.
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guitarfreak
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 8:36 pm

id say bondo,or like previously suggested bandsaw out some pvc and weld it in there.it would help the performance,because there would be less space for the air to compress before it hits the barrel
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CS
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 11:03 pm

How about a stub end?
<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/pl ... end1lg.gif">
I guessing that your your using 1" piping for the frame right. If so you could buy a 3/4 stub end sand that rim off and then barely sand the part that normally would be socket welded. So this would act as your PVC rod and would be considerably cheaper. Came up with this after I noticed that the ID of 1" PVC is 1.049" and the OD of 3/4" PVC is 1.050". I like the drawing by the way, it looks like the graffiti version of a cannon. Thats a good thing :wink: .
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TalonXxX
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Fri Dec 02, 2005 12:52 am

wow... never thought of that. very creative pimpmann and I really appreciate the help on this one. but I think I will take the lazy/cheap way out and use either bondo or plumber's expoy. thanks for the research tho :)

p.s. newb question... but can I post with this sig? or do I need "permission" or need to be "inducted" into the IPLA, I was just gonna use this so everyone could know where I was from... let me know. thanks

cheers
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boilingleadbath
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Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:52 pm

(I don't like this, but) you can't post with a sig unless you buy the ability to do so. It's in "the shop".
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