SpudFiles

Materials needed:
1.25\\" T
3/8 Brass Elbow
3/8 Brass Male Coupler (should be threaded on each side)
3/8 Brass Male Coupler (should be threaded on each side)(i wrote this twice because you need 2 of them)
1.25\\" to 1\\" Bushing
1.25\\" to 1\\" Bushing
3/4\\" Female Thread Coupler
3/4\\" Female Thread Coupler
3/4\\" Plug
1/4 Coupler (for blowgun)
Schrader Valve
Spring
Neoprene
Sealant
8 Screws
Blowgun
1.25\\" Plug

Start with the 3/4\\" plug. Bore out the back with a drill until you can slide a 3/8 coupler into it without screwing it in or anything.

Next, dry fit the bushings, T, and Female Couplers. The 3/4\\" fittings should fit into the 1\\" bushing. If it doesn't fit, sand it until it does. This part is tricky. Glue the bushings onto the opposite sides of the T. Glue the 3/4\\" threads in the bushings. Now pick a side, and put the 3/4\\" plud that you bored out in the back of the threads from the inside. You probalby should have dry fitted this too.

Now comes the brass. Rub sealant all over one end of the coupler and the inside of one end of the elbow. Screw the coupler in before it dries. Now put way too much sealant on the other end of the coupler and stick it through the plug from the inside. Before the sealant dries put globs of sealant through the 3/4\\" female threads that have the plug in them. Now blow through the open end of the elbow to make an air hole in the sealant. ( you can either do this or drill a hole later)
Make sure that the elbow is as centered as possible. Put more sealant inside the elbow and on the other 3/8 coupler and screw in the coupler. Make sure it is centered and not sticking up out of the T. It should look like the second diagram from the outside and the first diagram on the inside.

Now for all the other stuff. Take the 1\" plug and drill a hole in the center of the top for the blowgun coupler. Screw in the coupler to cut threads, then take it out and screw it back in with some teflon tape or sealant on it. Drill a hole in the top of the side of the plug for the schrader valve. Do the same thing with the schrader valve as with the coupler. Make sure that you got a weak spring that fits over the blowgun coupler. Turn the plug over and put the spring over the peice of the coupler that's sticking out.

Cut a diaphragm out of neoprene so that it can fit inside of the plug but is still a pretty good fit. Put it on top of the spring and leave it. Drill 8 small holes (smaller than your screws) on the top socket of the T, about 1/8\" away from the top. Slide the plug into the socket so that the diaphragm sits on top of the 3/8 coupler. Screw in all 8 screws where you drilled the holes for them. Put sealant on the tops of the screws and around the plug. The plug should not be all the way into the socket.

You have completed your valve!
If you want 1\" threads instead, do not put in bushings and use 1\" females and a 1\" plug.

As far as I've seen, these valves work better than sprinkler valves. They open faster and dump tons more air. You can put an air hose on if you want. It should look something like these when complete
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2338&

Note: This was the prototype so there are no screws

nice but that is already a common design

A lot of people are too dumb to know how to do this kind of stuff though.

I think the sprinkler I use on my cannon might have better flow. But you can look at the picture and judge for yourself. Keep in mind that this is a 1” valve.

<a href="" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/74/168657370_3f041157f5.jpg" width="350" height="307" alt="valveopenangle"></a>

How much did that cost?

like $10-$15 @ Home Depot its an older orbit model.

Hmm.. Good for you. Looks like you got a pretty good deal. That still doesn't look like any valve I've seen though. How about posting more pics of it or making a diagram of how it works?

first off the directions are a bit discouraging, but i prolly don't need to
read it anyways.

PCGUY's homeade valve diagram is way better than yours.

and

before i even think about making one of these just one question, how does it perform on ur guns?

If you want to know about my valve check out \"offset over and under\" in \"submit pneumatics\"

Also check out this valve I'm going to use for my next cannon.
<a href="" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/63/172534296_9d63aec5ca_m.jpg" width="240" height="180" alt="IMG_0531"></a>
Same full 1\" orifice PLUS inline or right angle flow and did I forget to mention \"NO DRILL MODIFCATION!\"

All from this humble orbit valve with flow control and a bleed screw.
<a href="" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/49/173013391_ff8532ab5b_m.jpg" width="211" height="240" alt="57020"></a>

Which diagram, the animation of the T piston valves? I could easily do that if I knew how to make animations. And those are in Ts, they're not inline. On my PB Rifle (it's in submit pneumatics) I can shoot a PB 571 fps with a normal modded sprinkler. With one of these suckers I can get up to and easily past 630. And you can make these kind od valves as big as you frickin want. Beebs111 told me he'd buy one from me if it was in a 3" T with 2" porting, which I'll do.

huse_spud wrote:first off the directions are a bit discouraging, but i prolly don't need to
read it anyways.

PCGUY's homeade valve diagram is way better than yours.

and

before i even think about making one of these just one question, how does it perform on ur guns?

I don't think PCGUY made thoose, Clide did...

and don't say someone elses is better when it's not the same type of valve... Clides\PCGUYS are piston and Nonames are diaphragm

Yeah, usually pistons can perform a bit better, but not enough to make a huge difference. And who would be able to make a stable piston that fit inside 1 1/4" plug with a spring and some other stuff behind it? It would have to be wider than it is long, and that would make it more of a solid diaphragm so it wouldn't work too well in this design.

Okay I have read different peoples theories and ideas for the last 3 days and so far this is my conclusion:

A supah valve best #1
A modified Sprinker Valve w/Blow gun mod #2
A standard un-modified sprinkler valve w/solenoid #3
A Ball Valve easiest obtained, ease of install, ect... But nowhere near air flow


So my question is this I have also read that a select few have what I assume is called the bleeder screw inwhich you can thread an air gun pistol to and use that instead of the drilling and mod ect, which would make several things better. Warranty because no mods, ease of install of pistol trigger, and no need to worry about guide rods, and springs and such......

So I have both a lowes and a home depot, I want to buy local in case of return and such so if someone will please point me that KNOWS without a doubt which model either of these stores carry that would be easily modded by removing the bleeder screw, or by drilling that will give me the most BANG for my BUCK I will not bit*ch, moan, complain, just wanted a trip saver because either of these stores are 60 plus miles one way, so I want the correct part on first trip otherwise gas money will eat Project money.

Thanks,
Jim211
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN ... 0&MID=9876
This is one that I have my eye on for features and description but someone gimme your .02 cents worth and lemme know what you think and while your browsing that page if you will look around and reccomend a model more suitable if this one isn't I would appreciate it alot thanks......

Remove the giant code there, it's ruining this thread... and you order of valves is off\missing valves...

#1.Supah Valve best valve
#2.Piston Barrel\chamber sealing tee
#3.Diaphragm Barrel\chamber sealing tee (including modded sprinkler valves)
#4.Un-modded sprinkler valve
#5.Ball-Valve...

And 1" ball valves have more flow than sprinkler valves, they just open a lot slower...

So basically all your post included was making me aware that I missed a few extra homemade valves, and as far as the flow of the ball valve I am aware it has more possible air flow but opens slower, thats why we do other things.....Now could you possibly take a few seconds and help someone out and answer the main question about the valve that I posted..I removed the code which I thought would make mod's happy as it does on other forums, but I did remove as you asked. Could you please take a few seconds and look at the rest of my post and help with that question....I was basically describing the production line of valves nothing homemade, I don't believe they are as safe as people claim...Not saying a manufactured is any safer but I would rather a ball valve then several layers of foil, or modded sprinkler then several layers of foil, I am not in anyway knocking anyones homemade valves at all but that's why I left those out. My order was correct other than the homemade stuff you threw in to make me feel less than smart. But I did that already by posting a question and having folks like yourself, reply help is just that helping not making someone that asks a question feel less intelligent than you. Anyone that can help me with the question I would appreciate the help I am going this weekend to buy parts and supplies so if someone would like to help great if not I will do it as usual trial and error but thought we had people here that liked to help out on questions.