I wonder if you could find a suitable 3-way valve to avoid having to drill a big old hole in the valve body?
Plumbing Supply scroll down to the 3-way valves
plastomatic
Or perhaps a standard ball valve and a T fitting? Chamber on the top of the T, Barrel on the other top of the T, ball valve on the leg of the T. Build with the T upside down.
Ball Valve Breech Loader for GB's?
- williamfeldmann
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Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just use a 2 inch tee (if sleeving the barrel) or a 1 1/2 inch tee (if not) that is bored out to slip around the barrel and make a rotating clip feeder? A 2 inch ball valve sucks to turn, even a pvc one, and there is no good way to rig up a magazine or hopper to the side of the ball valve.
Not to mention that a tee is way less money than a 2 inch ball valve, or any ball valve for that matter. Plus no centering, no extra epoxy work. I guess, maybe I don't see why you want this particular loading method so bad given the other options.
Edit: Voted it should work... but why?
Not to mention that a tee is way less money than a 2 inch ball valve, or any ball valve for that matter. Plus no centering, no extra epoxy work. I guess, maybe I don't see why you want this particular loading method so bad given the other options.
Edit: Voted it should work... but why?
Trying to figure out how to make a SCUBA first stage regulator work for portable charging station. If only that pesky job thing didn't keep eating up all my time...
"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." - Albert Einstein
"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." - Albert Einstein
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I'd much rather drill a hole than pay $45+
- jimmy101
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Good point.PVC Arsenal 17 wrote:I'd much rather drill a hole than pay $45+
But, if you use an un-mod'd ball valve and a T then you don't have to drill any big-ass holes (and risk trashing the ball or the valve body) and the only added cost is the cost of a T.
