Rail gun
Yesterday I tried to make a rail gun with my 650000mf capacitor(my BFG ignitor).The projectile was a piese of aluminium foil.At 12v when I push the botton it only makes a tiny spark between the projectile end the rail The capacitor remains fully chrged.I think the only think I can do is to rise the voltage.What voltage do you think should be enough, and what is the voltage for the camera flash ignition?
- rna_duelers
- Staff Sergeant 3
- Posts: 1739
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:07 am
- Location: G-land Australia
The projectile needs to be moving before the charge is ran through the rails it needs it direction of motion and.I found this cool web site and he has a small table top one maybe have a look and see how it works i remember seeing pics of it on here.

- rna_duelers
- Staff Sergeant 3
- Posts: 1739
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:07 am
- Location: G-land Australia
Go ghetto,make one that is very simple such as two connections that when you touch together the circuit is complete,it will work and wont cost much at all.

Go for triggered spark gap . After SCRs, spark gaps are preferred for this aplication. I have an idea for a simple trigered spark gap; will be posting soon. If you use mechanical switching not only will the two plates be welded shut, but you'll lose most of the energy from resistive heating.
Man, if I had as many toys as you do when I was your age
I said I'll draw a triggered spark gap, I'll do it tonight. It should solve your trigger problem.
But why have you wired your caps in series? Do you use a high voltage source to charge them?
8 X 2200mf @ 110V in series = 2200mf @ 8800V
8 X 2200mf @ 110V in parallel = 17600mf @ 110V
And I don't see a charging resistor. Careful there

I said I'll draw a triggered spark gap, I'll do it tonight. It should solve your trigger problem.
But why have you wired your caps in series? Do you use a high voltage source to charge them?
8 X 2200mf @ 110V in series = 2200mf @ 8800V
8 X 2200mf @ 110V in parallel = 17600mf @ 110V
And I don't see a charging resistor. Careful there

Here's a good description of the trigatron: http://www.angelfire.com/80s/sixmhz/trigatron.html
You should use large screws, sharpened at the end, for the main electrodes and a smaller screw, even sharper, for the trigger electrode.
For 220V, the distance between the main electrodes should be about 0.7 mm, but I could be wrong.
You feed the trigger electrode from a high voltage source - the higher voltage, the better. You could start with the sparker you've been using on combustions. If it doesn't work, make the gap smaller or try a different HV source. An air ionizer would be perfect.
Connect only the negative output of your HV source. If it still doesn't work, add another trigger electrode opposite to the negative one (you will connect this to the positive output), so the main electrodes and the trigger electrodes are at a 90 degree angle.
The triggers should be close enough to eachother to create a spark, but far enough from the main electrodes to prevent arc-over and discharge through the HV source. That would hurt
You should use large screws, sharpened at the end, for the main electrodes and a smaller screw, even sharper, for the trigger electrode.
For 220V, the distance between the main electrodes should be about 0.7 mm, but I could be wrong.
You feed the trigger electrode from a high voltage source - the higher voltage, the better. You could start with the sparker you've been using on combustions. If it doesn't work, make the gap smaller or try a different HV source. An air ionizer would be perfect.
Connect only the negative output of your HV source. If it still doesn't work, add another trigger electrode opposite to the negative one (you will connect this to the positive output), so the main electrodes and the trigger electrodes are at a 90 degree angle.
The triggers should be close enough to eachother to create a spark, but far enough from the main electrodes to prevent arc-over and discharge through the HV source. That would hurt
