Or I could keep the schrader and have it recessed as in my original design.maybe you should try and make a valve which can take alot more
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Or I could keep the schrader and have it recessed as in my original design.maybe you should try and make a valve which can take alot more
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Not really worried about thatchinnerz wrote:I was talking about the core
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Although plausible, the problem I see would be keeping the homemade schrader down to the same size and still function as well as the original. It is possible, but it would be a tad bit difficult to construct.chinnerz wrote:I don’t know how much abuse the Schrader valve can take, maybe you should try and make a valve which can take alot more
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Cutting solid rubber pistons with a sharpened tube is the quickest and easiest way to make them, which makes the method ideal for cartridges that have to be produced in quantity. However by definition I'm limited by the size of tube that fits in my drill, so if the chamber body is any bigger than half an inch or so I don't have this option.JDP12 wrote:Why is it you always put the piston in a smaller tube and epoxy that into the chamber? Wouldn't it be simpler just to make the piston the diameter of the body?
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
More volume and more area, let's hope it works outdewey-1 wrote:The latest .22 version looks promising!
If it works out let me know and I will do CAD drawings for you.
What I usually do, especially in winter, is pour the epoxy parts into a container then let it sit in a hot water bath for a few minutes. This makes the mixture very thin, ensuring that the two parts will be thoroughly mixed and that it will flow well into the cast, and also that any bubbles generated by mixing (and there are usually a lot because I do with with my drill) will rise to the surface.Do you use a vacuum pump to eliminate air bubbles after mixing epoxy?
In my past experiences with potting/encapsulation of electronic circuits, the removal of air bubbles was of utmost importance.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Thanks for that tip, i always found it really hard to pour epoxy when it didn't even come out the container!What I usually do, especially in winter, is pour the epoxy parts into a container then let it sit in a hot water bath for a few minutes. This makes the mixture very thin, ensuring that the two parts will be thoroughly mixed and that it will flow well into the cast, and also that any bubbles generated by mixing (and there are usually a lot because I do with with my drill) will rise to the surface.