Difference between revisions of "Aerosol"

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'''Aerosol''' propellants come in cans, you can buy them at any grocery or department store, and they do not need any auxillary hardware (like a [[fuel meter]]) to use. As such, they are quite popular.
 
'''Aerosol''' propellants come in cans, you can buy them at any grocery or department store, and they do not need any auxillary hardware (like a [[fuel meter]]) to use. As such, they are quite popular.
  
It is recommended that you avoid using hairspray, as it will gum up your chamber. Deoderant is much better - "Right Guard" in the brown can was the generaly recommended one until recently, when the formula was changed to use a non-combustible propellant. Any spray with flammable propellants will work, look for things like [[propane]], [[butane]], isobutane and/or [[starter fluid|ether]]).  
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It is recommended that you avoid using hairspray, as it will leave a sticky residue in the combustion chamber. Deoderant is much better - "Right Guard" in the brown can was the generally recommended aerosol fuel until recently, when the formula was changed to use a non-combustible propellant. Any spray with flammable propellants will work, look for compounds such as [[propane]], [[butane]], isobutane and/or [[starter fluid|ether]]).  
  
 
Because the amount of fuel cannot be measured accurately (the usual procedure is timing the spray duration by feel), it does not yield the performance that [[fuel meter|metered propane]] does - the pressure generated during a [[closed chamber]] firing is estimated to about 30-40 [[psi]], as compared to 40-50.  
 
Because the amount of fuel cannot be measured accurately (the usual procedure is timing the spray duration by feel), it does not yield the performance that [[fuel meter|metered propane]] does - the pressure generated during a [[closed chamber]] firing is estimated to about 30-40 [[psi]], as compared to 40-50.  
If your cannon is not firing, or is firing weakly and you have a flammable fuel (verified by spraying over a flame): check the [[ignition source]]. If you are getting a spark, you are most likely spraying too much fuel in; play around with how much you spray in until you get a good bang. And always remember to [[venting|vent]] your chamber between shots.
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If your cannon is not firing, or is firing weakly and you have a flammable fuel (verified by spraying over a flame): check the [[ignition source]]. If you are getting a spark, you are most likely spraying too much fuel in; experiment with varying amounts of fuel until successful results are achieved. And always remember to [[venting|vent]] the combustion chamber between successful and unsuccessful ignitions.
  
 
[[category:fuels]]
 
[[category:fuels]]

Revision as of 20:10, 4 February 2007

Aerosol propellants come in cans, you can buy them at any grocery or department store, and they do not need any auxillary hardware (like a fuel meter) to use. As such, they are quite popular.

It is recommended that you avoid using hairspray, as it will leave a sticky residue in the combustion chamber. Deoderant is much better - "Right Guard" in the brown can was the generally recommended aerosol fuel until recently, when the formula was changed to use a non-combustible propellant. Any spray with flammable propellants will work, look for compounds such as propane, butane, isobutane and/or ether).

Because the amount of fuel cannot be measured accurately (the usual procedure is timing the spray duration by feel), it does not yield the performance that metered propane does - the pressure generated during a closed chamber firing is estimated to about 30-40 psi, as compared to 40-50. If your cannon is not firing, or is firing weakly and you have a flammable fuel (verified by spraying over a flame): check the ignition source. If you are getting a spark, you are most likely spraying too much fuel in; experiment with varying amounts of fuel until successful results are achieved. And always remember to vent the combustion chamber between successful and unsuccessful ignitions.