Difference between revisions of "Muzzle loading"
(more info, typo) |
(spelling) |
||
Line 3: | Line 3: | ||
To muzzle-load a spudgun: | To muzzle-load a spudgun: | ||
* Get a (strait) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth. | * Get a (strait) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth. | ||
− | * Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your | + | * Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended. |
− | * Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you | + | * Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past. |
− | Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to | + | Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing performance and/or burning the operator. |
− | It is | + | It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing upon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your [[spud cutter]] as a separate instrument. |
Revision as of 22:25, 4 March 2006
The standard way of doing things, because it is the cheapest and easiest to make; in fact, it is not possible to make a launcher that cannot be muzzle-loaded.
To muzzle-load a spudgun:
- Get a (strait) stick, and preferably mark it where it is flush with the muzzle when the pushing end of it is at the desired projectile depth.
- Cut your projectile to size, by either pushing your projectile over your muzzle knife or your separate spud cutter. Paring knifes are not recommended.
- Ram that projectile home. Firm, steady pressure works best. If you cannot get the projectile go down, you may need to scratch it; this is done to allow the air to leak past.
Some design their launchers to be easier to muzzle load by making a small (like 1/16") vent hole at the base of their barrel for air to escape. This air would otherwise prevent the nearly airtight ammo from being rammed down there. Some, however, prefer to install a small valve of sorts. This prevents air or hot combustion gasses from shooting out and decreasing performance and/or burning the operator.
It is recommended that you sharpen your muzzle if you are planing upon shooting produce. Such a modification is called a "muzzle knife". If you do not feel safe having a cutter on the end of your gun, you can instead keep your spud cutter as a separate instrument.