anti-rust copper?
yea its simple, but keep it dry. the reason it turns green is because there is water in it. it could just be humidity if you live in a really humid place. other than that, just keep it clean and it wont do that.
it also wont do that if your ammo (not potatos or fruit) fits well, that will clean it out. like marbles and things like that.
ive never had that problem with mine and ive had it for several months.
i honestly wouldnt wory about it.
it also wont do that if your ammo (not potatos or fruit) fits well, that will clean it out. like marbles and things like that.
ive never had that problem with mine and ive had it for several months.
i honestly wouldnt wory about it.
Last edited by hi on Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"physics, gravity, and law enforcement are the only things that prevent me from operating at my full potential" - not sure, but i like the quote
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
Actually it doesn't rust, only iron or anything with iron (steel) rusts. Copper just oxidizes. You could try spray painting it or spraying on a clear coat (which would allow to see the copper). If you live in a dry environment (like new mexico) though it shouldn't oxidize very much or very fast, actually i have a piece which is as shiny as it was when i bought it.
Stanford Class of 2012
"In the end our society will be defined not only by what we create, but what we refuse to destroy"- John Sawhill
"In the end our society will be defined not only by what we create, but what we refuse to destroy"- John Sawhill
True, but my point was rusting was not the correct term. I was thinking though, would gun oil work for copper?
Stanford Class of 2012
"In the end our society will be defined not only by what we create, but what we refuse to destroy"- John Sawhill
"In the end our society will be defined not only by what we create, but what we refuse to destroy"- John Sawhill
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boilingleadbath
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Could one use a sacrificial anode in this application?
I'd presume not, because there isn't any return circuitry, but in all honesty, I don't know as much about this elecrochem application as Iad like to.
I'd presume not, because there isn't any return circuitry, but in all honesty, I don't know as much about this elecrochem application as Iad like to.
Sacrificial anodes are made of a more reactive element and will corrode before the other metal does. Although, I don't know if it would work in a gun at all. I guess you could try making something out of aluminum or magnesium and using that in the gun for the heck of it.
Gun oil is pretty close to stuff like WD40, but it's just more refined, has some stuff and leave some things out. If you are just using it on a BB gun or a copper gun, don't bother. My dad and I have always just used Rem Oil on all the guns for years, and it has worked fine.
Gun oil is pretty close to stuff like WD40, but it's just more refined, has some stuff and leave some things out. If you are just using it on a BB gun or a copper gun, don't bother. My dad and I have always just used Rem Oil on all the guns for years, and it has worked fine.
I'm weird, I know it, you don't need to tell me.
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Do what the Russians do with their AK cartridges - they're made of steel, but with a very thin layer of resin to keep them from corroding.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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boilingleadbath
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Err, that's what I'm talking about.
Although, admittedly, physically protecting the surface may be enough easier that it's the best option.
It's probably ok to forgo the fancy "gun" oils, BTW... it's not like anyone actually spent much time or effort researching proper formulations for such. Motor oil, or better yet, a grease, is good.
Speaking of grease, I saw some anti-corrosion marine axle grease at my local hardware store, which sounds like what we are looking for.
Of course, it may be anti-corrosion because of added phosphoric acid... and I don't know if that works for steel.
Although, admittedly, physically protecting the surface may be enough easier that it's the best option.
It's probably ok to forgo the fancy "gun" oils, BTW... it's not like anyone actually spent much time or effort researching proper formulations for such. Motor oil, or better yet, a grease, is good.
Speaking of grease, I saw some anti-corrosion marine axle grease at my local hardware store, which sounds like what we are looking for.
Of course, it may be anti-corrosion because of added phosphoric acid... and I don't know if that works for steel.
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mark.f
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Alright... I'm sure you've noticed that you can remove the oxidation from pipe with steel wool or emery cloth, right? (If you're soldering your joints, you BETTER have noticed this. 
)
Well, since you're not going to buy the pipe perfect, you should clean it first. I live in Louisiana, so any pipe I clean gets tarnished again about a few days later.
Anyways, clean it good with the steel wool, and then clean it good with soap-water. Buy some clear varnish/sealer from Home Cheapo and then give it a few thin coats, letting each coat dry in between. NOTE: don't get polyurethane. It doesn't work on copper... I've tried.
But, personally, I don't mind the tarnish that much. If you're ever humping the bush with your cannon, you don't want a shiny barrel reflecting sunlight everywhere.
)Well, since you're not going to buy the pipe perfect, you should clean it first. I live in Louisiana, so any pipe I clean gets tarnished again about a few days later.
Anyways, clean it good with the steel wool, and then clean it good with soap-water. Buy some clear varnish/sealer from Home Cheapo and then give it a few thin coats, letting each coat dry in between. NOTE: don't get polyurethane. It doesn't work on copper... I've tried.
But, personally, I don't mind the tarnish that much. If you're ever humping the bush with your cannon, you don't want a shiny barrel reflecting sunlight everywhere.
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joannaardway
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You can polish copper with Brasso, or I believe you can buy copper lacquer. It won't be quite as shiny afterwards, but it won't need polishing.
It depends on what you want.
It depends on what you want.
Novacastrian: How about use whatever the heck you can get your hands on?
frankrede: Well then I guess it won't matter when you decide to drink bleach because your out of kool-aid.
...I'm sorry, but that made my year.
frankrede: Well then I guess it won't matter when you decide to drink bleach because your out of kool-aid.
...I'm sorry, but that made my year.
You're better off leaving it alone. The thin film that forms protects Copper Brass and Bronze from further oxidization. Every time it forms and you abrade it off, you are slowly eating away the metal.
Everyone seems to want that camo look so why not let it form naturally?
Everyone seems to want that camo look so why not let it form naturally?