Would people buy valves
PVC type II rod is possibly the best piston material. It offers high impact strength and tensile strength (which are important), and is sold at a little under a dollar per inch (about $11 for 2" PVC type II rod)
noname, what do you mean when you say the piston can hold over 300 PSI? Why would it need to?
EDIT: when can we expect pictures? I know your building it now, but I just need a rough estimate
noname, what do you mean when you say the piston can hold over 300 PSI? Why would it need to?
EDIT: when can we expect pictures? I know your building it now, but I just need a rough estimate
I still dont understand how it costs 20 dollars in parts to make a valve.
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2" rod is probably good, but I don't have a lathe. It makes things considerably harder to do. And making o-ring grooves in solid Delrin is very hard and I've only cut one so far, which is too deep. Expect pics by next week at the latest. I could put it together without glue or screws first though.
since i dont have a lathe, i am looking for someone to machine me a pretty nice 3" piston for a coaxial, with a 1.5" sealing face. pm me with pricing and details and such. i have tried a few different pistons and they are not working very well. thanks alot
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OK IM NOT FLAMING YOU NONAME THESE ARE SERIOUS.
How can you make O-ring grooves and shape delrin without a lathe? It wont be made to perfection?
How can you make O-ring grooves and shape delrin without a lathe? It wont be made to perfection?
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- Shrimphead
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O-rings aren't nessecary on all valves.
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so...how is he shaping delrin and cutting perfect grooves without a lathe....
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i gave my mini 1 1/2" chamber 1/2" barrel 2" to fly back. unfortunatley i didnt use a spring and the piston flew through the back of my threaded cap
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I belive he knows what one is. Its the fact that he is using such a innacurate tool for something that requires you to be presice. Its like cutting butter with a chainsaw down to .001", it is simply not going to be as nice as if you were to use a tool designed for the job. If I recall right BLB stated that 5-10% squeeze is ideal for a sliding seal for a oring. Lets say your using a .125" thick oring. If I figured this right that means that each percentage of squeeze is tolerant to .00125". The cross-feed on a 8x12 HF lathe is only accurate down to .002"!!! With a dremel I couldnt see anyone even touching .01". Even at that your allowing your squeeze to deviate around 8% while being that precise.
Morale of the story being that a dremel is WAY to inaccurate for the job. Either your going to end up with leaks, or compensating with a higher squeeze lessing performance and most likely still having leaks. Do I need to further discuss this?!
Morale of the story being that a dremel is WAY to inaccurate for the job. Either your going to end up with leaks, or compensating with a higher squeeze lessing performance and most likely still having leaks. Do I need to further discuss this?!