PVC Glue And Primer

A place for general potato gun questions and discussions.
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MrCrowley
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 6:10 pm

i just tested some pvc cement with primer because( i didnt use primer on my combustion) and the cement wont dry like it did on my old gun i left it over night and its still wet!!!the guy at the hardware store said i didnt need primer but he didnt know what i was using it for and i dont use the same cement liquid in a bottle most of you use,i use a paste like toothpaste stuff in a toothpaste tube.the paste wont dry on a wet surface hence the primer.so do i let the primer dry first then apply the cement or what?
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noname
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 6:13 pm

I wait until the primer is like purple paint and all dry, then glue.
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CS
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 6:26 pm

Wait did you use some thread paste? lol. Are primer dont come in tubes ;-)

What color is this substance?
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MrCrowley
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 7:01 pm

nah i used proper Marley(Leading NZ pipe Brand) pvc welding solvent
its a paste like substance in a toothpaste like tube,it is white and really thick stuff coz on my old combustion i had a old barrel with inch fittings not metric so the reducer to connect barrel and chamber was 2mm too big but the welding solvent is so thick it fills up the gap.i didnt mean primer comes in tubes i meant the guy said you dont need primer for this stuff and my grandad said that too and he knew what i was building.

the best part is i get this stuff for free as my dad owns a huge hardware store but that bad thing is he doesnt stock pressure pipe because there is a plumbing shop next to him.
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sgort87
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:01 pm

Primer isn't expensive and a good sized can will last you a long time. Just use it. Do not use that paste cement. Use the liquid type. It is much better because it is designed to work with primer to actually WELD the joint together.

And now for you Noname... You are about to get your ass handed to you here... You NEVER let the primer dry! You prime, cement immediately while the primer is still WET, then join. You are offering to sell pneumatic valves and you are doing this with improper solvent welding tecniques?! Not just improper, but BAD methods. Are you trying to sell people things that will pop apart? Because they can and will if welded wrong!

Before ANY OF YOU (all forum members) ever make another launcher I want you ALL to go through this <a href="http://www.ipexinc.com/Content/EN_CA/3_ ... sp">Online Solvent Welding Course</a>. As a matter of fact, I wont even take you seriously on this forum unless you go through this and can prove it. IPEX was nice enough to set this up for free and they send you a nifty certificate and a pen upon completion. Believe it or not, I actually learned A LOT from taking this course last year.
Last edited by sgort87 on Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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noname
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:03 pm

I just read the can of primer and did what it said to do.
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sgort87
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:22 pm

It doesn't say to let it dry.

But yes, I can see what you are saying. Just take the course please. It isn't a punishment or anything to do so. Quite the opposite.
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MrCrowley
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:32 pm

umm ok gort...my dad doesnt stock it so its easy to get the cement.well anyway it does weld it properly i should post a pic of one of the joints on my old cannon and it looks like a proper weld,its a paste not a liquid so it bubbles and stands out a bit like a normal metal weld.my grandad was a old sailor for the british navy he said its fine becuase this stuff is different the guy at the hardware store said its also fine.
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sgort87
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:39 pm

Ok, if there is one thing you NEED to know about this hobby, it is that you never listen to the guy at the hardware store because guess what. He doesn't know a damn thing about this stuff.

And no offense at all, but rarely does a family member know what is the proper methods for these things - an awesome British Navy guy or not.

You should be fine with using this stuff for combustions, but PLEASE do not use it for any pneumatic guns. I don't want any more accidents from a blowout happening. We have had enough deaths, injuries, and bad publicity.
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:40 pm

If this paste stuff is a proper cement and is still wet from using primer with it I wouldnt use primer. But for a proper gun imo you will want to use liquid primer and cement, not saying your cement is wrong to use. And gort I am taking that course, I can solvent weld already but if you learned alot I want to see what this course has in it hopefully I will learn more as well.
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Velocity
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:53 pm

Just cut the paste crap and use the tried-and-true liquid cement
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MrCrowley
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:38 pm

ive got some cement you "Americans" use so hopefully some primer will drop outta the sky fired from one of Gort's cannons 8)
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sgort87
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:48 pm

Uhh.. Sorry I'm "American"?

You should order some primer online. Actually while you're at it, do yourself a huge favor and get the clear kind because it makes a huge difference on how the launcher looks. I still haven't ordered any for some reason...
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MrCrowley
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Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:12 pm

well i just assume you guys are mostly americans i know theres a few aussies and people from europe but come on give us a break. :wink:
ill look for clear stuff first then considor buying online
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mark.f
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Sat Aug 05, 2006 7:00 am

Gort, I took that online course, but they don't send you your certificate until a LONG time after, apparently.

The clear primer is WAY better for looks, but you also gotta know how to use it right. Purple dye is added to primer so you can see if you are applying it all the way around the joint. With clear primer, you've gotta be careful to get the entire socket and pipe/spigot end covered.

Clear primer can be bought off McMaster for fairly cheap. Just add it to an existing or current order with some other stuff, though. No need to make an order JUST for the primer.

<img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a123/ ... cement.jpg">
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