1.35" toolies valve

JDP12 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:14 am

Hey all-- Finished up my toolies valve today so i thought I'd share.

The valve is housed in a 1.25" steel nipple, five inches long. The ID is 1.35". The barrel has an ID of .6" and OD of around .7". It's 24" long. I'm hoping to upgrade it with a longer barrel soon.

Obviously it cant be very accurate now. I have to head back to school in two days unfortunately so I can't continue work on it, but I do have some plans in mind for it. I plan on making a wooden stock to embed this in, and tear apart a Nerf Maverick to add a revolving cylinder to it- similar to many of the guns found in Borderlands.

The rear seal is just a rubber gasket sandwiched between two washers. I was worried it wouldnt seal, but it does so perfectly, which was a welcome surprise.

Haven't actually shot it yet, as I have to finish leak testing and whatnot, but it does fire and opens quite well it seems.

Enjoy! Hopin to be able to upgrade it when I come back home in March, but until then its just going to have to sit.

EDIT: Forgot to add this will be used with high pressure CO2 eventually. Right now just testing at 110 PSI from my compressor to save CO2

Labtecpower · Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:25 am

Never got a piston made that way to work

I'm looking forward to some damage pics.

and.. at your signature..
You should add something like "he lives in a epoxy cavern under europe's surface"

JDP12 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:34 am

yea, i was pleasantly surprised when it did work. I've typically had lots of problems with piston valves in the past, but this one just went right.

Technician1002 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 12:31 pm

Very nice. Have you considered a washer for the front seal to hold the rubber flat?

If you have a drill press the rear seal can be turned for a better seal instead of having the chopped edge.

You can see what a turned seal with a washer looks like in this photo. The seal for the center piston was cut from a sheet of rubber.

JDP12 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:24 pm

Yea I realize the sealing face is not flat. That is a result of me just over tightening the nuts that hold it in place. There isn't really room for a washer since the nut fits inside the barrel pretty much perfectly. I could back off the tension so the seal face is flat, but for now its working.

Yea, i have a drill press, and could have done that. i used the circle cutter attachment for a dremel to cut it. It is a little rough, but through some lubricant and adjusting the width of the rear washer through tightening the nuts i am able to get a good seal. From what i can tell, it's a 100% seal. I was actually worried it wouldn't fill the chamber, but it still does.

Right now I'm happy with the way its working, if further tests reveal its unsatisfactory I'll adjust it.

jackssmirkingrevenge · Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:18 pm

Looks a bit rough but as always pretty is as pretty does, looking forward to some high pressure testing

JDP12 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:30 pm

Yea.... well on a whim i decided I wanted a grenade launcher, so i chopped the barrel off and am putting a 1.5" PVC. If I wanted to I can make another barrel for it relatively easily, just by gluin another piece of conduit in a 3/4" nipple, and viola, new barrel

Lockednloaded · Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:40 pm

in a toolies valve the back gasket doesn't have to seal right? it just similar to adding o-rings to a barrel sealer

JDP12 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:01 pm

The back gasket needs to seal a little bit. You have to be able to get air into the chamber, but you need it to seal good enough so that when you exhaust the pilot volume, the air in the chamber simply doesn't exhaust out of the pilot valve.

Lockednloaded · Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:55 pm

it seems to me like the exact same forces are acting on it as a standard barrel sealer, so even though a seal would allow you to use a smaller pilot valve, a low friction cast epoxy back part would be fine

Vincenzo · Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:00 pm

The back gasket needs to seal a little bit. You have to be able to get air into the chamber, but you need it to seal good enough so that when you exhaust the pilot volume, the air in the chamber simply doesn't exhaust out of the pilot valve.

You should have made a floating o-ring design then. Something like this:

JDP12 · Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:12 pm

Yea. Unfortunately i couldn't find o-rings in the right diameter. I tried to do o-rings it just didn't work with ones I had available.

This works for now. I'm fine with it so far.

JDP12 · Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:35 pm

alright, sorry for the double post, but slight update.

This will be the "final" configuration of the gun. The barrel right now is 1.5", but it will probably be downgraded to 1.25" as that gives better performance according to GGDT. I plan on housing it in a configuration similar to the HK69-- http://world.guns.ru/grenade/de/hk69-e.html

Will also be adding a break barrel. unfortunately I'm back at school now, so I wont be able to work on it for a couple of months.

KS-collector · Thu Sep 29, 2011 2:01 pm

Im not seeing how exactly this valve works. Can you explain it a bit? I must be missing something. Or maybe im an idiot. (I define 'maybe' loosely. Lol.) Either way, a little help would be nice.

Thu Sep 29, 2011 2:13 pm

KS-collector wrote:Im not seeing how exactly this valve works. Can you explain it a bit? I must be missing something. Or maybe im an idiot. (I define 'maybe' loosely. Lol.) Either way, a little help would be nice.

Toolies Piston Valve. The 'Wiki' is your friend.

1.35" toolies valve

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