The frame and grips will be the same piece, similar to the flintlocks of ye olde days.
The pictures aren't perfect, so if you can't see it well, the red wood is some beautifully curly red oak I bought from a local specialty lumber mill. Once it's shaped and polished, it ought to be gorgeous, especially with that white pine stripe from the spacer.
Here it is uncocked;
Here it is cocked;
The hammer spring is a piece of piano wire bent to the right shape. The hammer and spring are just scrap steel and key stock, (respectively) bent and shaped as needed. The hammer is a pretty blocky due to weight requirements; it's propane powered like most gas airsoft guns, so I need the hammer to over-travel, strike the valve, and return to rest without fully emptying the reservoir) That makes the hammer pretty ugly, so I prettied it up by doing a heat-bluing job on it. You can't see it very well in the picture, but it starts out deep blue, goes to peacock purple and down through the straw colors to steel-grey again. It's the first time I've tried heat-bluing and it turned out so well, I did it to the trigger, too.
I've tested it out by holding the mechanisms together and firing and it works. I had to adjust the fit of the o-ring on the valve stem, because I had been testing it with just compressed air. When I used propane (higher pressure) the o-ring slipped down the stem and maintained it's seal, even with the stem completely depressed! Enlarging the o-ring groove fixed this problem. Now, with tests, I can get multiple shots from a single charge of propane. Now, to figure out a propane charger nozzle that doesn't leak and freeze up my check-valve o-ring...
