Thanks for everyones help.
Parts and Assembly pics
3" Barrel, 4" Tee, 1" pilot valve, 4" Piston


















hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life

For starters, you can replace the second disk from right here with a spacer, it's just adding extra weight and friction. I would personally go for just 3 thin disks, one for the sealing face and another two forming a spool, have a look at this threadfor inspiration (and a preview of what might happen without a good bumper)AJAX wrote:Thanks for the Speedy Responses. Both of your conclusions i feel are very reasonable and i had some anticipation that those might have been the problem. I will Try the Felt First as a quick fix. However in the long run. i am fortunate enough to have 3D printer at School that i can use to print out a much lighter and Tighter tolerance piston. as the Printer will make the piston out of a Bee hive structure. My other Question would be should the piston i would print out be solid? or can it be ribbed or have cut aways? the more plastic i use the more expensive it is. not saying it will make a huge difference in cost.
Imagine you have a 3.999 inch piston in a 4.000 inch tee. This means that there is an effective area of 0.006 in<sup>2</sup> through which air can flow past the piston from the chamber. Let's imagine your 1" pilot valve has true 1" porting, this means that the air can flow out of an area of 0.7855 in<sup>2</sup> - so the pilot chamber is emptying at a much faster rate than it can be refilled from the chamber, and the piston should actuate. Imagine your piston were to be 3.900 inches diameter, the blowby area would be 0.6205 in<sup>2</sup> - very close to your pilot valve porting and the piston would likely never move.Also any clue of how tight the piston should be? we are talking .001?
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life

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